Recognising Behavioral Signals and understanding Stress in Dogs

Our dogs are not immune to stress. Just like humans, they can experience a range of emotional and physiological changes when faced with stressors. As responsible pet owners, it’s crucial to recognise these signs and understand the underlying science behind stress in dogs. Failure to recognise these very often leads to trigger stacking. (Check out our previous blog)

When dogs encounter stress, their bodies release stress hormones such as cortisol and adrenaline. These hormones trigger various physiological changes that impact their behaviour and overall well-being. A study conducted by Beerda et al. (1999) found that stress in dogs can lead to increased heart rate, blood pressure, and respiratory rate. Additionally, elevated cortisol levels can affect the immune system and impair digestion, contributing to a host of health issues.

Some Behavioural Signals of Stress in Dogs:

Excessive Barking or Howling:
Stressed dogs may resort to excessive vocalisation as a way to express their anxiety or discomfort.
Pacing or Restlessness:
Restlessness, pacing back and forth, or an inability to settle down can indicate heightened stress levels in dogs.
Excessive Panting or Drooling:
When dogs are stressed, they may exhibit increased panting or drooling, as these physiological responses help regulate their body temperature during stressful situations.
Tail Tucking between the Legs:
A tucked tail is often a clear sign of fear or anxiety in dogs. It indicates their desire to withdraw or protect themselves from the stressor.
Dilated Pupils:
Stress can cause a dog’s pupils to dilate as a result of the increased release of adrenaline, preparing their bodies for a potential threat.
Excessive Scratching or Licking:
Stressed dogs may engage in excessive scratching or licking, as stress can trigger skin sensitivities and allergies.
Reduced Appetite or Sudden Weight Loss:
Just like humans, dogs may experience a loss of appetite or sudden weight loss during stressful periods. Stress can affect their digestive system, leading to decreased interest in food.
Aggression or Growling:
Stress can manifest as aggression or growling in dogs. This behaviour serves as a defensive mechanism to protect themselves from perceived threats.
Trembling or Shaking:
Trembling or shaking is a common physical manifestation of stress in dogs, indicating their heightened emotional state.
Excessive Yawning:
Dogs may yawn excessively when under stress. Yawning in this context is not necessarily due to tiredness but rather as a coping mechanism to release tension.
Hiding or Seeking Solitude:
Stressed dogs may seek isolation or hide in confined spaces as a way to cope with stressors.
Excessive Shedding:
Increased shedding can be a sign of stress in dogs, as the body responds to stress by shedding hair more rapidly.
Excessive Vocalization:
Some dogs may become vocal when stressed, whining or whimpering to express their discomfort.
Destructive Behavior:
Stress can lead to destructive behaviour in dogs, such as chewing on furniture, shoes, or other objects, as a way to alleviate their anxiety.
Excessive Lethargy:
While some dogs may become restless when stressed, others may display excessive lethargy, appearing sluggish or uninterested in their usual activities.
Excessive Licking of Lips:
Stressed dogs may frequently lick their lips or nose as a self-soothing behaviour to relieve stress.
Frantic neediness: trying to climb up you jumping up, over friendly clingy behaviours.
Excessive Salivation:
Excessive salivation, often resulting in the dog having a wet or foamy mouth, can be a sign of stress or anxiety.
Sudden Changes in Bathroom Habits:
Stress can cause dogs to have accidents indoors or experience changes in their bathroom habits, such as increased frequency or difficulty urinating or defecating.
Avoidance Behavior:
Stressed dogs may actively avoid certain people, places, or situations that they associate with stress, seeking to distance themselves from potential stressors.

Recognising these behavioral signals is vital, as it allows us to address the underlying causes of stress in our dogs. Some common stressors for dogs include changes in their environment, separation anxiety, lack of physical or mental stimulation, noise phobias, or unfamiliar situations.

To alleviate stress in dogs, it’s essential to provide a safe and stress-free environment that meets their physical and emotional needs. This can include regular exercise, mental stimulation, a consistent routine, positive reinforcement training

Understanding the signs of stress in dogs is crucial for their overall well-being. By recognising these behavioural signals and addressing the underlying causes, we can help our dogs lead happier and healthier lives. Remember, each dog is unique, and stress manifests differently in individuals. If you suspect your dog is experiencing stress, consult a professional to develop a tailored approach that suits their specific needs. Let’s prioritise the mental and emotional health of our dogs!

References:

Beerda, B., Schilder, M. B., van Hooff, J. A., de Vries, H. W., & Mol, J. A. (1999). Chronic stress in dogs subjected to social and spatial restriction. II. Hormonal and immunological responses. Physiology & Behavior, 66(2), 243-254. doi: 10.1016/s0031-9384(98)00327-7

I broke my dog!

Last night, my adorable dog Dozer suddenly transformed into a completely different creature. He exhibited reactive behaviour, which is not typical of him at all. We were sitting in a pub, patiently waiting for our food, when someone walked past with another dog. Normally, this wouldn’t have fazed him, but this time he abruptly lunged forward, barking so loudly that it startled everyone around us. His barking persisted, and we had to remove him from the room and take him outside. This is completely out of character for our baby Dozer.

So, what caused this sudden change? The answer is trigger stacking. Our recent experiences have been quite eventful as we are currently staying in a hotel near Southampton. While it sounds lovely, the past few days have been filled with various stressors for Dozer. It all started five days ago when we were still in Waxham, in our caravan. Thomas, who Dozer loves left to go home, and our pup began searching for him during every walk. Then, during a lunch outing, a dog sitting at the next table stared intently at Dozer, making him feel unsettled. Following that, we experienced three storm fronts with thunder throughout the night, which is never pleasant when living in a caravan.

The next morning, strong winds with 30mph gusts caused our awning to start separating from the caravan. We had to frantically empty its contents and take it down in high winds, creating a lot of noise and chaos. While we were finishing packing away tables and chairs, Dozer was let out to investigate. Unfortunately, in the mess, I accidentally trapped my finger in a folding table, causing a painful injury to my finger and blood to pour everywhere. Dozer became stressed and began to jump up at me almost trying to climb up me after sniffing all of the blood. The following night brought another storm, and yesterday morning, we embarked on a long five-hour drive to Southampton through horrendous weather. Arriving late at the hotel, Dozer, who had never been in a hotel before, couldn’t settle down. He spent most of the night pacing and grumbling at every noise.

All of these stressors and changes have been too much for my sweet Dozer to handle and recover from. Sometimes life becomes difficult to control, and our dogs struggle to keep up with the fast pace. This is my apology to my beloved dog and my confession of feeling like a less-than-perfect caretaker.

So what exactly is trigger stacking?

Trigger stacking in dogs occurs when multiple stressors or triggers accumulate, overwhelming the dog’s coping mechanisms and resulting in an exaggerated or inappropriate response. Similar to humans, dogs can experience stress from various sources like loud noises, unfamiliar environments, changes in routine, and interactions with other animals or people.

When a dog faces multiple stressors in a short period, these triggers can accumulate and have a cumulative effect. For instance, if a dog is already anxious due to a thunderstorm and then encounters a stranger entering their home, their reaction may be more intense compared to experiencing only one stressor at a time. This is because each trigger adds to the dog’s overall stress level, making it challenging for them to remain calm.

During trigger stacking, the body releases adrenaline and cortisol, stress hormones that prepare the dog for a fight-or-flight response. It takes time for these hormones to return to normal levels, and the dog’s body to reach homeostasis. This is why it’s crucial to manage trigger stacking and prevent it from occurring in the first place.

Once we are back home, I will give Dozer a few days of normality to allow his cortisol levels to reduce (which can take up to 3 days). After that, I will gradually reintroduce him to pubs and cafes, taking small steps to ensure he doesn’t generalise his behaviour to all eating places. It is important to plan and organize this process carefully. If I miss the signs of him becoming uneasy and allow him to become overwhelmed to the point of reacting with an outburst, we risk creating a pattern.

Although trigger stacking led to this behaviour, in Dozer’s mind, barking and lunging were attempts to make the other dog go away. By removing him from the situation, this goal was achieved. I’m not suggesting that we should have moved him outside to calm down because we most certainly should have, but rather pointing out that mismanaging the situation could create a pattern where Dozer believes barking and lunging leads to the removal of the perceived threat.

This is often where reactive behaviour starts. Owners may either avoid the situation entirely, which means the dog never learns how to react appropriately other than barking and lunging, or they continue to expose the dog to the situation but in excessive amounts, resulting in a cycle of bark-lunge-removal. This can be incredibly frustrating for both the owner and the dog.

To visualize the situation, imagine it as a game of buckeroo, with the original trigger being the full load that causes the donkey to buck. To start, we need to have just one or two items on the saddle, then stop and give time between sessions to remove the items and allow your dog to process and recover.

Remember, each dog is unique, so it’s always recommended to consult with a professional dog trainer or behaviourist who can provide personalised guidance and support based on your dog’s specific needs

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Mantrailing is more than training.

Please read this article from Mantrailing uk

Find an event at Doghampton

Mantrailing is like no other activity or sport that you can take part in with your pet dog. It is completely unique dog training in many ways but quite interestingly, it can help solve a number of unwanted behavioural problems that may challenge your every day life with your dog such as fear, hyperactivity, phobias, stress, anxiety, reactivity and aggression.

Mantrailing is allowing the dog to make the right choices independently and will be much more satisfying and prioritising the preferred habits in the brain. It has the effect that over time, it changes unwanted habitual behavior and shapes new behavior that is the final, desired goal. It interrupts and redirects unwanted dog behavior, will give the dog satisfaction and can be therapeutic. This, in turn, will provide various benefits and will give you and the dog more confidence and stress free experiences.

These dog behaviours can lead to you becoming extremely isolated with your dog and having stressful and disappointing experiences and missing out on taking part in various activities or even simple dog walks.

Mantrailing is the ultimate sport for turning a pessimist into an optimist!

It is one of the very few sports where the dog can work freely and the handler can enjoy watching their dog work. It is all about putting the dog in control and the handlers taking a back seat and watching how the dog works tricky trails out themselves. Through this, the handler learns to read the dogs body language, which creates a great bond and ultimately will equate to further progression in their behavioural and every-day training.

By taking part in Mantrailing, both you and your dog become a team – the best team imaginable! You will achieve success after success together, getting a buzz each time a missing person is found.

This will also help with building the dog’s confidence and self-esteem up in a very short period of time. It helps the dog to become less stressed, relax, learn a new game and have endless fun along the way. By working as a team, the dog will naturally want to engage with their handler and learn.

A dog’s nose dominates its brain, so naturally Mantrailing provides mental, intellectual stimulation for your dog, providing an exceptional workout for the brain, tiring them out without the need for physical exercise. This is perfect for dogs that are still bouncing around the house after endless walks, puppies, elderly dogs or dogs that are unable to complete as much physical exercise for one reason or another.

“It is invaluable dog training.”

It´s not competitive or over arousing like some other dog sports. It is fantastic at getting the dogs to solve problems, which in turn will build confidence and make the dog more likely to respond to behavioural modification training as the dog will want to engage and learn. This will help to change the dog’s reaction to certain situations such as a person, a dog, another animal or person.

“By making Mantrailing the best game ever, we change the priorities for the dog.”

Behaviour, that has become habitual for the dog, such as chasing a runner or barking at another dog, can be challenging to reverse. By making Mantrailing, which is a natural game, more fun, exciting and rewarding, we are changing the priorities for the dog. All over sudden, chasing that bike isn´t as important as following the trail that leads to receiving the best reward. A lot of dogs find trailing rewarding in itself.

Once the dog understands the concept of Mantrailing, which happens usually within the first session, there is no stopping them from doing their ‘job’. The dogs are extremely intent on following the trail to find their missing person, that whatever or whoever gets in their way is completely ignored. This has, for expample, enabled dog reactive dogs to ignore any other dogs on or near their trail.

Nervous dogs have been brave enough to pass objects or scenarios they once wouldn’t pass or take food from strangers that they might not normally approach.

Olfaction is believed to be the dogs’ most powerful and perhaps important sense. Their sensory world is impressively different from ours, they observe their world through relentless sniffing and scent discrimination. Dogs can have up to 300 million olfactory cells, whereas us humans have only about 15 million.

“It is believed that they can detect a tea spoon of sugar in an olympic sized pool.”

Canine olfaction is a growing area of scientific investigation and there are many new applications surfacing every year. The dogs’ brain is build around the information it gets from scent which is closely linked to emotions. Endorphins are chemicals that are produced in the brain during times of stimulation and excitement, they create feelings of calmness and happiness and decrease stress and anxiety.

When endorphin levels are too low the dog is likely to feel under a lot of stress, which can result in undesired or obsessive behaviours that the dogs use as a mechanism to cope. Anything that induces pain or excitement boosts endorphin levels, so a dog could chew his own paw, spin, or chase shadows all day as their way of creating enough endorphins for normal function.

The more the brain can be engaged and challenged with new behaviours, the more relaxed and content the dog will be. Stimulating the dog mentally and physically can help it cope with lower than average levels of endorphins being produced.

So what are you waiting for? Get trailing!

To find out more about Mantrailing and how to get involved, visit our events page or join our Facebook group “Mantrailing Association UK”

Find out more

Sign up for more info

References

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/280446218_Canine_Olfaction_Scent_Sign_and_Situation

http://www.balancebehaviour.org/

The Importance of play.

The Triangle of Play

This is written by a good friend of mine the legend that is Denise Price. Aka ‘gripper’

There is a link to her page below please take a look.

Triangle-of-Play

The Triangle of Play

There are 3 essential ingredients to play – the dog, the toy … and you. It is all three of these components that make the play really fun, and make up what I like to call “The Triangle of Play”. Leave a toy static in a toy box: your dog may pick it up once in a while, but will soon lose interest. Yet if you pick up the toy and generate some energy with it, you’ll also pick up your dog’s interest, and there you have the “Triangle of Play”: dog, toy and handler.

Play has been a theme in class recently, and spurred on by my colleague Samantha Dobson, I’ve got round to blogging it so that I can share it with you.

So, let’s play!

Why play?

It is really important to play with your dog. Play helps strengthen your bond with your dog:

“Most types of play appear to improve social cohesion between humans and dogs, increasing their familiarity and reducing agonistic interactions” (Somerville et al, 2017 [3])

The more you engage in the right kind of play, the better the bond with your dog can get:

“Play frequency and form may therefore be an indicator of the quality of dog-owner relationships.” (Bradshaw et al, 2014 [4])

Creating a good toy drive also gives you another reward option – sometimes food just doesn’t cut it.

But I don’t know how to play!

If you’re like me, you might find “playing” difficult at first. I love structured activities – when I play with my 8-year old son, we often do arts & crafts, board games, Lego, etc. However, when it comes to imaginative play, role play, then I begin to flounder after a few minutes. Somewhere on the journey to adulthood inhibitions have crept in, and play can become stilted and awkward unless I “let go” and properly engage with him. It takes a conscious effort for me to do it; hopefully I’ll get there before he grows up all too quickly!

Not knowing how to play with their dog affects many of my students in class; they worry they’re “not doing it right”. I love teaching my two dogs Mabel and Murphy tricks, agility, obedience and so on. It’s fun for me – structured, enjoyable fun. But that is not playing.

When I watch Mabel & Murphy play together, I imagine that I’d be hard pressed to match the fun factor they generate. They take turns to chase, dart around, duck and dive, sometimes have a little tussle, sometimes play tug-of-war with gusto. It all looks brilliant fun. How can I match that? The good news is that I don’t have to – that isn’t comparing like with like. Dog’s view playing with other dogs quite differently to playing with a human. With the former it has more of a competitive element;

“when the play-partner is a person, however, the important thing is the social contact that the game produces” (Bradshaw, 2011, p.204 [1]).

It is you that makes the game fun!

We can learn to play. In November last year, I invited Craig Ogilvie to come to my Haynes workshops to give me kick-start in Interactive Play [5] – and if you can get to one of his popular sessions then do! The triangle picture is me playing with Mabel under Craig’s guidance. My take home (or rather, take to the training class) points were to really engage with her, don’t be afraid to get puffed out, go for it, let the dog get the toy.

Note: if your dog has resource guarding / behavioural issues, consult your behaviourist for advice before embarking on play with your dog.

The Triangle of Play: Dog, Toy, Handler

1. The Dog

How will your dog like playing? Think a little about your dog’s breed – what are they designed to do? A toy breed may have very different ideas about what constitutes a good game compared to a terrier, or a gun dog, or a working dog.

Hundreds of years of breeding will have a big influence on which bits of the predatory motor patterns

ORIENT > EYE-STALK > CHASE > GRAB-BITE > KILL-BITE > DISSECT > CONSUME

(Copppinger and Coppinger, 2004, p.209)

they exhibit. It is well known that Border Collie’s are bred to have “the eye”; they exhibit ORIENT > EYE-STALK > CHASE very strongly to ensure that they work their flocks successfully. To generalise, Border Collie’s should prefer games that involve movement and chasing – so a toy attached to a flirt pole and you working the chase might be a good option for them. Terriers are bred to hunt out and kill vermin so exhibit CHASE > GRAB-BITE > KILL-BITE > HEAD-SHAKE > DISSECT motor patterns – so they should enjoy getting a good grab of a small furry toy, and having a really good rag on it (but don’t expect the toy to last long!). Ideally, retrieval gun dogs should prefer to retrieve their quarry, but it’d be a poor show at a shoot if they dissected the game: their motor patterns would typically be: ORIENT > CHASE > GRAB-BITE (Coppinger and Coppinger, 2004, p.210). So they might prefer not to engage in a full on head shake with their tug game; holding the toy may suffice.

This gives you some idea about how they will go about playing, but do bear in mind that every dog is an individual: see breed as a guide rather than a universal law.

2. The Toy

What toy will your dog like playing with? That’s really up to your dog!

Think about the texture of the toy – what do they prefer to hold in their mouth – canvas, fur, rope, smooth rubber, textured rubber, felt (e.g., tennis ball covering)? Think about the size of your dog – their toy has to comfortably fit in their mouth, can they get a good grip on it without it being a choke hazard? Does a squeaky toy excite them? As the play needs to involve you, it is helpful that you choose something you can easily get hold of (or attach to a flirt pole). If your dog is a little “mouthy” make sure there’s enough length in the toy to ensure no accidental mouth to hand contact.

The ideal toy could be a tennis ball stuffed in a knotted sock if your dog is a little bit ball (or sock) obsessed. If a ball on a rope is their thing, pick a rope width and ball size that’s appropriate to their mouth size. Maybe a long plaited fleece would suit a dog that prefers a soft feel to its “prey” but also prefers a little distance from his handler (or vice versa!). Some dogs may love a furry squeaky toy, others may prefer a canvas one. Rubber hoops are good (pullers).

A fair few dogs I know love collecting plastic bottles – they like the crinkly noise they make when they are crunched – so “upcycle” a bottle, pop it in an old footie sock. Remember, it’s what floats your dog’s boat, so think about what they naturally make a beeline for. See reference [7] for ideas from tug-e-nuff. Trial and error will play a part until you hit the jackpot. Once you do, keep that toy aside – it is the special toy for your “Triangle of Play”, so only get it out for your play sessions.

3. The Handler: YOU

Playing with your dog and their toy:

Make the toy really exciting by wiggling it around, lots of movement; your energy and vocalisations should really get the dog going. Don’t waft it in front of your dog’s face; instead whizz it around at ground level to encourage your dog to EYE-STALK > CHASE the toy. Lose your inhibitions, don’t be shy! As long as your dog is excited to watch and chase the toy, that could be enough play for your first session. Keep it brief and lively, no more than a couple of minutes to begin with, and then pop the toy away – leave the dog wanting more!

If your dog grabs and bites the toy, praise them with a “Good Hold”. It doesn’t matter if they don’t get a hold of it in your first few sessions, they will soon get the idea and engage with the you and the toy as their confidence grows – they might just look at it and follow it with their eyes the first few times, then next time begin to chase and sniff it, in later sessions perhaps chase and grab then release, before finally chasing, grabbing and holding. Take your time over several short cheerful sessions to develop the hold. Once they do take a hold of the you, encourage them to keep hold of it. Move with the dog, with cheerful vocalisations and plenty of praise.

When your dog has hold of the toy, tug at it with them – a swishing side to side motion is ideal. Avoid raising the toy upwards with the dog attached to it – we’re not interested in developing a strong jaw, we’re looking at light hearted jolly play. Your dog may offer some vocalisations – go with it, they’re having fun!

Once they’ve got the hang of holding the toy, teach them to release the toy. You’ll need another toy. Make toy no.1 really exciting by wiggling it around, lots of movement; your energy and vocalisations should really get the dog going. Once the dog has seized the toy, say “Good Hold”, and encourage some tugging. When you are ready, toy no.1 becomes ‘dead’ – you stop moving it and disengage from play (but do not release the toy). But all of a sudden you whip out toy no.2, and now it’s all about toy no.2. Really go for it! If you’re a bit puffed out and feel like a wally, you’re probably doing it right! Once your dog is reliably releasing the toy in exchange for another one, you can introduce your “Out” cue word. Click here for a nice video example from Steve Mann of the IMDT [6].

To avoid frustration, let them win the toy – it is rewarding and will make them want to play more: “The majority of dogs do not seem to regard competitive games played with a human partner as “dominance” contests: rather, winning possession of objects during games appears to be simply rewarding. “ (Bradshaw et al, 2014 [4])

The extent of the hold/tug really depends on your dog. Some dogs will hold on for dear life, whereas others will just have a little nibble and tug. The engagement is what matters, not the tug.

So long as it is right for your dog, you’re doing it right!

So, go and play with your dog – use the “Triangle of Play” to build your bond with your dog.

https://www.facebook.com/DenisePriceDogInstructor/

References

John Bradshaw, In Defence of Dogs (2011), London, Penguin Books.
Raymond Coppinger and Lorna Coppinger, Dogs (2004), London, Crosskeys Select Books.
Sommerville, R., O’Connor, E.A., Asher, L., Applied Animal Behaviour Science (2017), Why do dogs play? Function and welfare implications of play in the domestic dog, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.applanim.2017.09.007
Bradshaw, J. W. S., Carter, A., Rooney, N. J., Behavioural Processes 110 (2014), Why do adult dogs ‘play’? https://doi.org/10.1016/j.beproc.2014.09.023
Craig Ogilvie: http://craigogilviedogtraining.com
A lovely video explanation of the “Out” can be found by Steve Mann of the IMDT here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5ldRn9iS5Y
Ideas for toys: lovely variety can be found here https://tug-e-nuff.co.uk/collections/bungee-tug-toys-1

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DOGS NEED TO PLAY – by Susanne Broughton

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<input type='hidden' name='jetpack_contact_form_jwt' value='eyJ0eXAiOiJKV1QiLCJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.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.998YTEWHbj74XR6LsGoMWewI90J7SxEBx--SPSJR5ZU' />

<div style="" data-wp-interactive="jetpack/form" data-wp-context='{"fieldId":"g35-name","fieldType":"\u0022name\u0022","fieldLabel":"\u0022Name\u0022","fieldValue":"","fieldPlaceholder":"","fieldIsRequired":"","fieldErrorMessage":"","fieldExtra":[],"formHash":"24ea3e12d927098fc160932c80a47a8bcd0e3d55"}' class='grunion-field-"name"-wrap grunion-field-wrap' data-wp-init='callbacks.initializeField' data-wp-on--jetpack-form-reset='callbacks.initializeField' >
<label
for='g35-name' class="grunion-field-label "name"" >"Name"</label>
<input
type='text'
name='g35-name'
id='g35-name'
value=''

data-wp-bind--aria-invalid='state.fieldHasErrors'
data-wp-bind--value='state.getFieldValue'
aria-errormessage='g35-name-text-error-message'
data-wp-on--input='actions.onFieldChange'
data-wp-on--blur='actions.onFieldBlur'
data-wp-class--has-value='state.hasFieldValue'

class='"name" grunion-field'
/>

<div id="g35-name-text-error" class="contact-form__input-error" data-wp-class--has-errors="state.fieldHasErrors">
<span class="contact-form__warning-icon">
<svg width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 16 16" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg">
<path d="M8.50015 11.6402H7.50015V10.6402H8.50015V11.6402Z" />
<path d="M7.50015 9.64018H8.50015V6.30684H7.50015V9.64018Z" />
<path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M6.98331 3.0947C7.42933 2.30177 8.57096 2.30177 9.01698 3.09469L13.8771 11.7349C14.3145 12.5126 13.7525 13.4735 12.8602 13.4735H3.14004C2.24774 13.4735 1.68575 12.5126 2.12321 11.7349L6.98331 3.0947ZM8.14541 3.58496C8.08169 3.47168 7.9186 3.47168 7.85488 3.58496L2.99478 12.2251C2.93229 12.3362 3.01257 12.4735 3.14004 12.4735H12.8602C12.9877 12.4735 13.068 12.3362 13.0055 12.2251L8.14541 3.58496Z" />
</svg>
<span class="visually-hidden">Warning</span>
</span>
<span data-wp-text="state.errorMessage" id="g35-name-text-error-message" role="alert" aria-live="assertive"></span>
</div>
</div>

<div style="" data-wp-interactive="jetpack/form" data-wp-context='{"fieldId":"g35-email","fieldType":"\u0022email\u0022","fieldLabel":"\u0022Email\u0022","fieldValue":"","fieldPlaceholder":"","fieldIsRequired":"","fieldErrorMessage":"","fieldExtra":[],"formHash":"24ea3e12d927098fc160932c80a47a8bcd0e3d55"}' class='grunion-field-"email"-wrap grunion-field-wrap' data-wp-init='callbacks.initializeField' data-wp-on--jetpack-form-reset='callbacks.initializeField' >
<label
for='g35-email' class="grunion-field-label "email"" >"Email"</label>
<input
type='text'
name='g35-email'
id='g35-email'
value=''

data-wp-bind--aria-invalid='state.fieldHasErrors'
data-wp-bind--value='state.getFieldValue'
aria-errormessage='g35-email-text-error-message'
data-wp-on--input='actions.onFieldChange'
data-wp-on--blur='actions.onFieldBlur'
data-wp-class--has-value='state.hasFieldValue'

class='"email" grunion-field'
/>

<div id="g35-email-text-error" class="contact-form__input-error" data-wp-class--has-errors="state.fieldHasErrors">
<span class="contact-form__warning-icon">
<svg width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 16 16" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg">
<path d="M8.50015 11.6402H7.50015V10.6402H8.50015V11.6402Z" />
<path d="M7.50015 9.64018H8.50015V6.30684H7.50015V9.64018Z" />
<path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M6.98331 3.0947C7.42933 2.30177 8.57096 2.30177 9.01698 3.09469L13.8771 11.7349C14.3145 12.5126 13.7525 13.4735 12.8602 13.4735H3.14004C2.24774 13.4735 1.68575 12.5126 2.12321 11.7349L6.98331 3.0947ZM8.14541 3.58496C8.08169 3.47168 7.9186 3.47168 7.85488 3.58496L2.99478 12.2251C2.93229 12.3362 3.01257 12.4735 3.14004 12.4735H12.8602C12.9877 12.4735 13.068 12.3362 13.0055 12.2251L8.14541 3.58496Z" />
</svg>
<span class="visually-hidden">Warning</span>
</span>
<span data-wp-text="state.errorMessage" id="g35-email-text-error-message" role="alert" aria-live="assertive"></span>
</div>
</div>

<div style="" data-wp-interactive="jetpack/form" data-wp-context='{"fieldId":"g35-comment","fieldType":"\u0022textarea\u0022","fieldLabel":"\u0022Comment\u0022","fieldValue":"","fieldPlaceholder":"","fieldIsRequired":"","fieldErrorMessage":"","fieldExtra":[],"formHash":"24ea3e12d927098fc160932c80a47a8bcd0e3d55"}' class='grunion-field-"textarea"-wrap grunion-field-wrap' data-wp-init='callbacks.initializeField' data-wp-on--jetpack-form-reset='callbacks.initializeField' >
<label
for='g35-comment' class="grunion-field-label "textarea"" >"Comment"</label>
<input
type='text'
name='g35-comment'
id='g35-comment'
value=''

data-wp-bind--aria-invalid='state.fieldHasErrors'
data-wp-bind--value='state.getFieldValue'
aria-errormessage='g35-comment-text-error-message'
data-wp-on--input='actions.onFieldChange'
data-wp-on--blur='actions.onFieldBlur'
data-wp-class--has-value='state.hasFieldValue'

class='"textarea" grunion-field'
/>

<div id="g35-comment-text-error" class="contact-form__input-error" data-wp-class--has-errors="state.fieldHasErrors">
<span class="contact-form__warning-icon">
<svg width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 16 16" fill="none" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg">
<path d="M8.50015 11.6402H7.50015V10.6402H8.50015V11.6402Z" />
<path d="M7.50015 9.64018H8.50015V6.30684H7.50015V9.64018Z" />
<path fill-rule="evenodd" clip-rule="evenodd" d="M6.98331 3.0947C7.42933 2.30177 8.57096 2.30177 9.01698 3.09469L13.8771 11.7349C14.3145 12.5126 13.7525 13.4735 12.8602 13.4735H3.14004C2.24774 13.4735 1.68575 12.5126 2.12321 11.7349L6.98331 3.0947ZM8.14541 3.58496C8.08169 3.47168 7.9186 3.47168 7.85488 3.58496L2.99478 12.2251C2.93229 12.3362 3.01257 12.4735 3.14004 12.4735H12.8602C12.9877 12.4735 13.068 12.3362 13.0055 12.2251L8.14541 3.58496Z" />
</svg>
<span class="visually-hidden">Warning</span>
</span>
<span data-wp-text="state.errorMessage" id="g35-comment-text-error-message" role="alert" aria-live="assertive"></span>
</div>
</div>
<p class='contact-submit'>
<div class="contact-form__error" data-wp-class--show-errors="state.showFormErrors"><span class="contact-form__warning-icon"><span class="visually-hidden">Warning.</span><i aria-hidden="true"></i></span>
<span data-wp-text="state.getFormErrorMessage"></span>
<ul>
<template data-wp-each="state.getErrorList" data-wp-key="context.item.id">
<li><a data-wp-bind--href="context.item.anchor" data-wp-on--click="actions.scrollIntoView" data-wp-text="context.item.label"></a></li>
</template>
</ul></div><div class="contact-form__error" data-wp-class--show-errors="state.showSubmissionError" data-wp-text="context.submissionError"></div> <button type='submit' class='pushbutton-wide'>Submit</button> <input type='hidden' name='contact-form-id' value='35' />
<input type='hidden' name='action' value='grunion-contact-form' />
<input type='hidden' name='contact-form-hash' value='24ea3e12d927098fc160932c80a47a8bcd0e3d55' />
</p>
<p style="display: none !important;" class="akismet-fields-container" data-prefix="ak_"><label>Δ<textarea name="ak_hp_textarea" cols="45" rows="8" maxlength="100"></textarea></label><input type="hidden" id="ak_js_1" name="ak_js" value="232"/><script type="text/javascript">
/* <![CDATA[ */
document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() );
/* ]]> */
</script>
</p></form>
</div> — Photo by bin Ziegler on Pexels.com

Dog on dog aggression is one of the most common behaviour problems that owners face, Dr Ian Dunbar states that the major reason why dogs become aggressive toward other dogs is that during their puppy-hood, dogs are often deprived of adequate socialisation with other good-natured dogs. As a result, many pups grow up with poor social skills, unable to ‘read’ other dogs and exchange subtle communication signals with them. So how can we ensure our dogs don’t end up one of these statistics? Socialisation clearly, but what does that mean? There are many misconceptions around this, one that I hear a great deal is ‘but we have other dogs’ having other dogs will not teach your puppy how to greet and play with dogs he has only just met! In fact, it could even make him worse. Do you greet your family in the same way you greet a stranger? All dogs just like us have their own individual characters, some need loads of exercise and love boisterous play others not so much, some like to play chase games some don’t want to play or even to say hello! Your pup needs to understand this and know how to interact with every dog.

Regular contact with playmates is necessary for dogs to develop social confidence. Sign up to a puppy class or find a small day centre that offers puppy mornings, your local vets may even have puppy parties. All interaction needs to be supervised to ensure they are positive socialisation experiences.