I would like to formally lodge a complaint about Christmas.
You think it is magical.
I think it is a sudden environmental collapse that happens overnight and smells aggressively of pine needles, cheap sausages and panic.
One minute the house is normal.
The next minute there is a tree indoors. A tree. Inside seriously!
No roots. No soil. Just a tree that has clearly been abducted.
It smells like outside, squirrels, frost, possibly another dog who has opinions, and you have decorated it with shiny dangly things that move when I breathe near them. Some of them scream if touched. Others fall off and shatter and then everyone looks at me like I personally planned it.
I sniff it once and you shout.
I sniff it twice and you panic.
I sniff it a third time and suddenly I am “too interested”.
Make it make sense. This violates every rule I know about trees and I am not even allowed to pee on it.
Then the people arrive. Not normal people. Christmas people!!!
People who never usually come to my house but have suddenly arrived wearing flashing jumpers, novelty hats and an unearned sense of authority, sitting in my spot and offering unsolicited feedback on my behaviour.
Including Uncle Dave…
Uncle Dave has always been a bit off.
Uncle Dave smells like humbugs that have lived in a coat pocket since 1987, unwashed clothes, cheap aftershave and a faint but undeniable note of wee. Uncle Dave stares at me. Uncle Dave calls me “boy” regardless of my actual identity. Uncle Dave bends down into my face, reaches for my head and pats it thoughtfully, like he is checking a melon.
I do not like Uncle Dave.
You laugh nervously and say “Oh he’s fine” while I calculate whether I can leave my own house without being rude.
And then there is the food.
My god, the food. It is everywhere. Tables. Counters. Hands. Low coffee tables.
Some of it smells like heaven itself. Some of it will absolutely kill me and you will cry while Googling “dog ate stuffing what now”.
Chocolate. Grapes. Raisins. Onions. Fatty leftovers. Cheese in quantities that would medically concern a horse.
I do not know these rules. I only know that for eleven months of the year you are organised and in charge, and then December arrives and you run the house like a children’s party where the parents have given up and opened the wine.
You drop a sausage and shout when I catch it mid air like an athlete.
Mixed messages people!
The noise starts early. Music. Laughter. Crackers. Someone shouting the answer to a quiz question they have already got wrong.
On the outside I look calm. On the inside my nervous system is doing parkour, vaulting over furniture, scaling walls and screaming “WE ARE NOT TRAINED FOR THIS.”
Dogs do not experience noise as festive background. It goes straight into our bodies. Some of us cope by sleeping. Some of us cope by being busy. Some of us cope by stealing socks, barking at nothing or pacing like we are waiting for a bus that never comes.
Then the routine vanishes. Walks are late. Meals are weird. Bedtime is a suggestion.You stay up late, sleep in, forget things, eat snacks and drift around in loose fitting trousers releasing small but concerning amounts of festive gas, and somehow expect me to just roll with this emotionally.
I do not know what day it is. I do not know why nothing makes sense. I do know that everything feels louder.
Wrapping paper appears. It rustles. It smells exciting. It hides things. You shout when I eat it but leave it on the floor like a challenge. Ribbons, tape, tags, squeakers, bows. It is basically an enrichment activity designed by a vet with a mortgage.
And here is the bit you might miss. I do not understand Christmas. I understand energy.
Stress. Excitement. Tension. Chaos. I feel all of it.
When I get clingy, grumpy, zoomy, withdrawn or “a bit much”, I am not being naughty. I am coping. I am communicating. I am doing my best in a house that has turned into a festive obstacle course without warning.
What helps is you remembering me. Some peace and quiet, a bit of space away from the noise, the food and the flashing lights, and preferably several rooms between me and Uncle Dave. Something to chew, lick or sniff while the world loses its mind.
A normal walk. A tiny bit of training. Five minutes of calm that feels like before the tree arrived.
I love you. I really do.
I just need you to remember that while you are celebrating, relaxing and calling it “festive”, I am navigating Christmas nose first, with no context, no briefing, no written risk assessment and no understanding of why the furniture has changed, and the humans have started wearing hats, while processing twelve new smells, unpredictable noise, emotional adults, rogue sausages, blinking jumpers and the sudden appearance of Uncle Dave, all without the option to ask questions or leave politely.
Understanding odour strength, scent movement, and why our dogs and their noses thank us for keeping things clean
If scentwork were a superhero film, dogs would be the heroes and humans would be the clumsy sidekicks spilling things on the lab floor. At UK Scent Sport, we take our heroes’ noses seriously, so when it comes to which odours we use, we choose the one that’s safest, cleanest, easiest to handle and most consistent: Kong.
Let’s break down why Kong remains our gold standard, and how whole clove and gun oil compare when it comes to scent strength, contamination risk, and canine welfare.
The Science of Smell: It’s All About Volatility
When we talk about odour, we’re really talking about volatile molecules tiny airborne chemicals escaping from a surface and carried by air currents.
More volatile = stronger, faster scent spread Less volatile = slower release, cleaner control
Dogs have over 300 million scent receptors compared to our measly five to six million, which means a scent that smells mild to us can hit a dog’s nose like an airhorn to our ears at 7am.
So the question isn’t can the dog smell it they always can, it’s how do we manage what they smell and how they learn from it?
Kong: The Gold Standard of Control for us.
Made from natural rubber, Kong has minimal volatile output.
That means:
Low odour bleed: Rubber doesn’t leak scent the way oils or organic matter do.
Contamination control: You can handle it safely, reuse it, and avoid unintentional residual scent on gloves, tins, or training areas.
Fine-tuned challenge: You can break Kongs into different sizes, hide them in containers, and restrict airflow to increase difficulty.
Because Kong is inert, predictable, and easy to clean, it lets handlers focus on teaching the skill rather than fighting the contamination.
Emotional Pairing and Connection
Kong is unique because it taps directly into a dog’s natural emotional systems. When we pair scent work with something the dog can play with, bite, and eat from, we’re not just teaching an odour, we’re building a deep emotional connection. Through classical conditioning, the scent of the Kong becomes linked to all the good feelings of play, food, and success a combination that naturally reinforces learning and motivation.
With Kong, dogs experience low pressure and high enjoyment. They search, find, and sometimes even rewarded through the same object, so there’s no confusion between work and play. This clarity creates what scientists describe as emotional learning, where the brain releases feel-good neurochemicals like dopamine and oxytocin. Over time, the Kong itself becomes a conditioned reinforcer, the dog doesn’t just recognise the odour, it feels good about it.
From a behavioural science perspective, this ties directly to Jaak Panksepp’s SEEKING system, the neural network responsible for curiosity, exploration, and joyful anticipation. Kong based scent work activates that system naturally, turning each search into a self rewarding experience.
For pet owners, this approach is far more forgiving. It doesn’t require perfect timing, complex criteria, or specialist kit. The reward is built in, the emotional response is genuine, and success comes easily for both dog and handler. That’s why Kong pairing remains one of the simplest and most effective ways to begin scent detection in my opinion, it connects learning with joy.
Clove: The Gentle Spice With Sticky Secrets
Whole cloves (from Syzygium aromaticum) smell glorious to us, but their active compound eugenol is a powerful phenol that makes up 70–90 % of the clove’s volatile oil fraction.¹
That means even intact buds slowly leak eugenol into the air. It’s why a jar of cloves will perfume your entire cupboard in a week.
The science behind it
Hard to standardise (different clove batches vary in strength) Risk of residual scent in rooms and kit.
Eugenol has a moderate vapour pressure, so it steadily evaporates at room temperature. Even when used as “whole clove soaks” (cloth pieces stored with cloves), the cloths act as odour sponges, absorbing and releasing scent over time.² It’s far milder than pure essential oil, but the odour can still linger and contaminate surfaces if cloths touch walls, boxes, or handlers’ hands.
Frustration and Over-Arousal from Strong Odours
Too easy to make “fog horn hides” where the dog can smell it from the car park
When hides are excessively strong, dogs can reach what many trainers call a frustration threshold. Instead of working methodically, they may bark, vocalise, overreact, or even disengage from the search altogether. This is not enthusiasm, but a breakdown in emotional regulation caused by the odour being too intense or overwhelming.
In scent-detection contexts, barking at hides is widely recognised as a symptom of too much stimulus or poor hide calibration rather than excitement. When the odour plume is overly powerful, the dog cannot effectively problem-solve, leading to conflict between drive and task clarity. As a result, the search behaviour becomes frantic or scattered, and handlers may see “meltdowns” or dogs mentally crashing mid-search.
Trainers from scent-sport and operational backgrounds frequently document these patterns. For example, Scent Work University discusses the concept of a frustration threshold in detection dogs, noting that excessive odour strength can cause over-arousal, barking, or quitting behaviour when dogs cannot resolve the scent source effectively (ScentWorkU.com). Similarly, The IAABC Foundation Journal highlights that inappropriate odour strength or hide placement can disrupt the behaviour chain, resulting in confusion, false indications, or stress responses such as barking (IAABC Foundation Journal).
While there is limited peer-reviewed research specifically on “strong odour equals frustration,” these consistent field observations across scent-work communities support the view that overpowering hides can push dogs beyond their workable emotional threshold, replacing focus and problem-solving with frustration and noise.
Why UKSS doesn’t use it
While some sport groups use clove to vary odour types, it comes with headaches:
For us, scentwork should build problem solving, not perfume distribution. So cloves stay in the kitchen, not the kit bag.
Gun Oil: The Loud One in the Room
Gun oil sounds dramatic and it is. It’s a mixture of hydrocarbons, lubricants, and sometimes solvents or added fragrance molecules. Analytical studies of firearm headspace reveal compounds like nonanal, decanal, octanal, tridecane, and even nitroglycerin residues in some cases.³
These are all highly volatile, meaning:
The scent travels fast often flooding an entire search area. Residue is real issue, oils and solvents cling to skin, gloves, and surfaces. Dogs detect it instantly, which can make searches too easy or confusing when residual traces remain.
The problem with power
Gun oil’s odour profile is strong, chemically complex, and inconsistent between brands.
In petsport, it introduces: Safety risks (solvents and hydrocarbons aren’t kind to noses at close range) Standardisation issues (no two gun oils smell alike) Massive contamination problems (touch one thing, scent three more)
In short: great chemistry experiment, terrible classroom tool.
How Odour Strength Affects Learning
Think of scentwork like teaching maths: you wouldn’t hand a beginner a university textbook.
If the odour is too strong:
The dog stops thinking and starts reacting Search behaviour shortens Dogs rely on “flood scent” instead of reading airflow or trace changes Anxious dogs may disengage due to intensity
Research in detection learning shows that gradual odour availability control changing exposure through dose, container design, and ventilation leads to stronger long-term accuracy and better discrimination.⁴
Kong makes this process simple; oils and strong volatiles make it chaos.
Contamination: The Hidden Enemy
Every experienced handler has seen it: the dog alerts perfectly… on the table you used ten minutes ago.
Why? Because residual odour sticks.
Gun oil: spreads by touch and vapor; microscopic residue remains for hours or days. Whole clove soaks: cloths leave scent traces on any porous surface. Kong: inert and easily cleaned, meaning false cues drop dramatically.
I’m not suggesting that a Kong leaves zero residual scent, after all, anything an object contacts will leave trace molecules behind. However, the residual scent from a Kong is generally far lighter, easier to clean, and quicker to dissipate than that from strong oils or solvents.
Because Kongs are solid rubber objects rather than volatile liquids, they emit far fewer free odour molecules into the environment. Many scent work sources note that Kongs “leave very little residual odour when moved.” The Sniffer Shop, discussing Kong in scent work, states residual Kong odour may linger for a few minutes after the piece or hide is removed, depending on size, time, and environmental conditions, but emphasizes it is limited. The difference can be understood via the concepts of lingering versus residual odour. (Dead pools and live pools as I like to call them), Lingering odour is essentially the dissipating aroma (which decreases over time), while residual odour is the source contamination (e.g. oil traces) that physically remains. Because the Kong’s scent residues are weaker and more contained, wiping or cleaning surfaces after a session removes most of what remains much more easily. Compared to oily odors that can saturate surfaces and linger in porous materials, rubber-based scent residues tend to be simpler to manage.
So in short: Kong does leave residual scent, but the amount is minimal, less intrusive, and far more manageable, which makes cleanup and maintaining a clean search area much easier for trainers and pet owners.
For fair sport testing and consistent progress, we need neutral, contamination free environments. That’s only achievable with low transfer aids like Kong.
Operational Dogs vs Sport Dogs
Operational detection teams, such as those in the military, police, or security sectors , often imprint dogs directly on the specific target odour they will later be deployed to find, such as firearms residue, narcotics, or explosives. Their training environment is highly controlled, with strict contamination protocols and a single operational goal: reliability under pressure.
Renowned detection trainer Simon Prins has written extensively about the importance of pairing dogs directly on their true target odour from the start. In his work, he describes using Gextex tubes to deliver pure, controlled samples of the target scent, allowing dogs to associate that precise odour with reward and success. Prins’ reasoning is clear, if the dog’s future job is to detect a specific odour, pairing from the outset avoids confusion, contamination, or emotional mismatching between the object and the operational scent.
For UK Scent Sport, however, Kong is the ultimate target odour. We are not transitioning dogs to explosives or narcotics, Kong itself is the goal. That’s why the same scientific principles Prins outlines make perfect sense here. By pairing dogs directly on the final odour (in this case, Kong), we create clarity, strong motivation, and a consistent emotional connection between scent, task, and reward.
Operational handlers use these techniques for precision and reliability in life critical work. In sport and pet detection, the same science supports enjoyment, confidence, and a clear learning pathway for dogs and handlers alike.
Their dogs are selected for intensity and resilience. They use chemically analysed, standardised training aids. Their setups involve ventilation, PPE, and strict handling.
UKSS dogs are pet dogs doing sport we prioritise welfare, learning, and enjoyment. There’s no reason to bring solvent vapours or residual eugenol into that picture.
The UKSS Bottom Line
At UKSS, we build precision and confidence, not chaos and cologne.
Kong gives us low volatility, clean handling, predictable behaviour, and perfect emotional pairing. Whole cloves smell lovely but are inconsistent and sticky. Gun oil is too strong, too variable, and too risky for the sport environment.
Our dogs deserve clarity, not confusion. We train for skill, not spectacle, and sometimes, the smartest choice really is the simplest one.
So yes, Kong may be humble, but in the world of scentwork, it’s the quiet genius holding it all together.
References
Mulyaningsih, E. et al. (2011) Clove (Syzygium aromaticum): Chemistry and Therapeutic Potential. In Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. Saleh, M.A. et al. (2018). Volatile Composition and Antioxidant Properties of Clove Products. J. Essential Oil Res. Stefanuto, P.H. et al. (2021). Detection of Volatile Organic Compounds from Firearms Headspace. Frontiers in Analytical Science. Jezierski, T. et al. (2014). Canine Olfactory Learning and Generalization. Applied Animal Behaviour Science.
Bringing home a rescue dog is an incredibly rewarding experience, but let’s be honest sometimes it feels like you’ve just adopted a furry little question mark. One minute they’re cautiously sniffing around, and the next, they’re hiding behind the couch like it’s a zombie apocalypse. If your new pup is on the nervous side, don’t worry force-free training, tapping into the natural desires and patience can work wonders.
Meet Goose – My Own Rescue Success Story
Before we start, let me introduce you to Goose, my own rescue dog. When Goose first arrived, he was anxious and unsure of his new surroundings. With patience, positive reinforcement, and force-free training, he slowly blossomed into the confident (so of the time) and loving companion he is today. His journey inspired me to help other dogs adjust and thrive, which is a large part of the work DogHampton in Northamptonshire do, we are dedicated to force-free training and helping dogs build trust with their humans.
Once Goose had settled, we introduced track trailing as a way to build his confidence. This safe, on-lead activity allowed him to tap into his natural instincts to hunt and follow scents while giving him a structured way to engage with the world around him. Since he was securely on a lead, we didn’t have to worry about his lack of recall, and he absolutely thrived with this newfound job! Watching him follow a trail with excitement and determination was a game-changer in his journey toward confidence.
Step 1: Give Them Time to Decompress
Imagine you just moved to a foreign country where you don’t speak the language, the food is weird, and the locals (that’s you) keep staring at you expectantly. Overwhelming, right? That’s exactly how your rescue dog feels.
Create a quiet, cozy space where they can retreat.
Keep introductions slow—let them come to you instead of overwhelming them with affection.
Stick to a consistent routine to build a sense of security.
Step 2: Build Trust with Positive Reinforcement
Force-free training is the gold standard for gaining a nervous rescue dog’s trust. This means no yelling, no harsh corrections, and definitely no dominance-based techniques. Instead, let’s bribe I mean, motivate them with tasty rewards and praise.
Use high-value treats (think chicken, cheese, or whatever makes their tail wag like a propeller).
Mark and reward calm behaviours if they sit or make eye contact, praise them.
Respect their space forcing interaction can backfire. Let them approach you in their own time.
Step 3: Teach Basic Cues at Home
So, what’s the best way to train my dog at home? Short, positive sessions in a quiet environment. Nervous dogs thrive when they understand what’s expected of them, so start with simple cues.
Sit and Down – These give your dog something to focus on besides their worries.
Touch (target training) – Encourages engagement in a non-threatening way.
Mat training – Teaches them that their bed is a safe, rewarding place.
Step 4: Socialisation—At Their Pace
Rescue dogs often have a history, and we don’t always know the full story. That’s why socialisation should be gentle and gradual.
Start with low-distraction environments before heading to busier places.
Let them observe from a distance before encouraging interaction.
Keep interactions with other dogs and people short and positive.
Step 5: Addressing Fear-Based Behaviours
If your dog reacts nervously (barking, cowering, freezing), resist the urge to punish them. Instead:
Identify triggers and work on desensitisation.
Allow them to retreat from the trigger, build trust and become your dogs ‘safe space’.
Pair scary things with rewards (e.g., if they’re scared of the vacuum, give treats when it’s off and gradually when it’s on).
Use calming tools like snuffle mats, lick mats, or anxiety wraps.
Timing is crucial, contact a professional to help
Step 6: Be Patient, Celebrate Small Wins
Progress won’t always be linear some days, your dog will feel brave, and others, they might regress. That’s totally normal! Celebrate the small victories, whether it’s the first tail wag or finally venturing into the kitchen without hesitation.
Final Thoughts
Learning how to train a rescue dog isn’t about quick fixes it’s about building trust, confidence, and a lasting bond. Force-free training ensures they feel safe while learning the ropes of their new life. With patience, love, and a little humour, your rescue dog will go from nervous newbie to confident companion in no time!
Bonus Tip: If you’re feeling stuck, consider working with a force-free trainer who can offer guidance tailored to your dog’s unique needs. If you’re in Northamptonshire, DogHampton is here to help, just like we helped Goose!🐾
Mantrailing, the practice of using a dog’s extraordinary sense of smell to locate a specific person by following their unique scent trail, it has evolved from an essential tool for search and rescue to an exciting activity for pet owners. While professional mantrailing is widely known in fields like law enforcement and search and rescue operations, pet mantrailing allows regular dog owners to tap into their dogs’ innate abilities, turning it into a stimulating and fun exercise.
The Science Behind Mantrailing
Mantrailing is based on the fact that humans constantly shed skin cells, sweat, and other tiny particles that contain our individual scent profile. These scent particles, called rafts, float through the air and settle on the ground, creating a trail that a dog’s acute sense of smell can detect and follow.
Dogs have one of the most powerful olfactory systems in the animal kingdom, with 200 to 300 million scent receptors, compared to a human’s mere 5 million. Additionally, the part of a dog’s brain dedicated to processing smells is 40 times larger than in humans, enabling them to identify individual scents in a highly complex scent environment. This means that dogs can follow a specific person’s trail even in places where other humans or animals have been, and over various terrains such as forests, fields, and urban environments.
When a dog engages in mantrailing, it works by distinguishing the specific scent of the target person from all other smells in the environment. Dogs trained in mantrailing can follow these scent particles even hours or days after the person has passed through an area, as long as the environmental conditions such as wind, temperature, and humidity have not completely dispersed the scent.
The Origins of Mantrailing
Mantrailing as a practice has roots in early human history, but it became formalised as a technique in the 19th century. Bloodhounds, with their highly developed sense of smell, were used extensively in Europe for tracking escaped prisoners and lost individuals. Their natural tracking abilities made them highly effective in law enforcement and rescue missions.
One of the earliest recorded uses of mantrailing in a professional capacity was in Scotland in the 1800s, where Bloodhounds were employed to trail criminals. Around the same time, in the United States, Bloodhounds were famously used to track runaway slaves and later criminals. The technique spread rapidly across the world, becoming an essential tool in police work and search and rescue efforts.
Over time, other breeds, including German Shepherds, Belgian Malinois, and Labrador Retrievers, have been trained for mantrailing due to their strong scent detection abilities and intelligence. In recent years, mantrailing has moved beyond law enforcement and search and rescue to become a popular sport and recreational activity for pet owners.
Sport Mantrailing: A Modern Twist on an Ancient Skill
In sport mantrailing, regular pet dogs, rather than professional working dogs are trained to follow a specific human scent for recreational purposes. This form of mantrailing harnesses a dog’s natural scent-tracking instincts and channels them into an enjoyable and mentally stimulating activity.
While sport mantrailing is grounded in the same principles as professional mantrailing, it is often less formal and rigorous. Instead of searching for missing persons, dogs in pet mantrailing typically follow the scent of person just hiding. Sport mantrailing has become popular in Europe, particularly in Germany and the United Kingdom, where organised clubs and training courses have sprung up to teach dogs and their owners how to engage in the activity.
The Training Process
Training a dog for pet mantrailing starts with introducing the dog to a scent article, such as a piece of clothing that has been worn by the target person. The scent article contains the specific odour particles that the dog will be tasked with following. The dog then learns to search for the person who left the scent, starting with short, simple trails and gradually progressing to longer and more complex ones.
The key to successful mantrailing lies in a positive reinforcement training approach. Dogs are rewarded with treats, toys, or praise when they successfully locate the person they are trailing. This motivates them to engage in the activity with enthusiasm and improves their scent discrimination abilities.
Benefits of Sport Mantrailing
Sport mantrailing provides numerous benefits for both dogs and their owners:
Mental Stimulation: Dogs need mental challenges to stay happy and healthy, and mantrailing offers a perfect way to engage their brain. The process of searching for and following a scent requires intense focus, which helps tire them out mentally.
Physical Exercise: In addition to engaging a dog’s brain, mantrailing also provides physical exercise, as the dog has to move through different environments, sometimes at a fast pace, while following the scent trail.
Strengthens the Dog-Owner Bond: Mantrailing is a cooperative activity between the dog and its handler. It fosters a strong sense of teamwork, as the dog learns to rely on its handler’s cues while the handler learns to trust the dog’s scent detection abilities.
Confidence Building: Mantrailing can boost a dog’s confidence, particularly for shy or anxious dogs. Successfully finding the person at the end of the trail gives dogs a sense of accomplishment and encourages them to rely on their natural instincts.
All Breeds Can Participate: While professional mantrailing often focuses on breeds known for their scenting abilities (like Bloodhounds or German Shepherds), pet mantrailing is open to all breeds and sizes. From small terriers to large retrievers, any dog can enjoy mantrailing with the right training.
The Role of Scent and Environmental Factors
While dogs’ noses are incredibly powerful, the environment plays a significant role in their mantrailing success. Factors like wind direction, humidity, temperature, and the presence of other animals can influence how a dog follows a trail.
Wind can carry scent particles over long distances, helping or hindering a dog’s ability to detect the trail. A light breeze can help spread the scent in a way that is easier for the dog to follow, while strong winds may scatter scent particles in multiple directions, making the trail more challenging.
Humidity helps to preserve scent particles in the environment, making it easier for dogs to follow older trails. Dry conditions, on the other hand, can cause the scent to dissipate more quickly.
Temperature also impacts scent detection. Cooler temperatures tend to preserve scent longer, while hotter conditions can cause scent particles to rise and disperse more quickly.
Understanding these environmental factors is crucial for pet owners who want to engage in mantrailing, as it helps them work with their dog more effectively.
Summary
Sport mantrailing is a fascinating and enriching activity that allows dogs to use their natural abilities while providing physical and mental stimulation. Rooted in centuries of professional use, the modern adaptation of mantrailing for pets opens up new possibilities for dog owners to bond with their pets and engage in a fun, team-based activity. From its origins in law enforcement and search and rescue to its current role as a recreational activity for dog lovers worldwide, mantrailing continues to showcase the extraordinary capabilities of canine olfaction, offering benefits for both dogs and humans alike.
Are you a looking for a unique and engaging activity to share with your dog? Look no further than mantrailing! This exciting and rewarding activity offers numerous benefits for both you and your dog. Unfortunately, there are some misconceptions floating around that may discourage potential enthusiasts. Fear not! In this blog, we will delve into the amazing benefits of mantrailing while debunking five common myths, including the notion that only certain breeds can excel in this activity.
Maya hot on the heels of her trail layer
Myth: Only certain breeds can trail. One of the most persistent myths about mantrailing is that only specific breeds possess the necessary skills to participate. In reality, any dog, regardless of breed or size, can learn to be a good mantrailer. While certain breeds may have natural instincts that make them excel in scent work, any dog can be trained to enjoy and succeed in mantrailing. It’s all about patience, consistency, and building a strong bond with your dog.
Myth: Mantrailing is only for highly energetic dogs. Another misconception is that only high-energy dogs can benefit from mantrailing. While it’s true that energetic dogs often enjoy this activity, it can also be a great outlet for dogs with lower energy levels. Mantrailing provides mental stimulation, encourages problem-solving skills, and promotes overall well-being. It’s a fantastic way to engage and challenge dogs of all energy levels while strengthening the bond between you and your pet.
Myth: Mantrailing is too complicated to learn. Some may think that mantrailing is a complex and challenging activity to teach their pets. However, with the right approach and guidance, mantrailing can be taught to dogs of all ages and skill levels. We will help you understand the basics, including teaching your dog to follow a specific scent, differentiate between scents, and work collaboratively with you. The key is to start with simple exercises and gradually build up skills through positive reinforcement and consistent practice.
Myth: Mantrailing is only for professional search and rescue dogs. While mantrailing is commonly associated with search and rescue work, it’s essential to recognise that this activity can also be enjoyed recreationally. Participating in mantrailing provides mental stimulation, offers an opportunity for dogs to utilise their natural instincts, and encourages physical exercise.
Myth: Mantrailing is time-consuming and requires extensive equipment. Contrary to popular belief, mantrailing can be adapted to fit your lifestyle. You don’t need elaborate equipment or hours of training sessions to enjoy this activity. Even short, regular sessions can provide significant benefits for your pet. With a few essential items like a long leash, harness, you can start your mantrailing adventure in no time. It’s a flexible activity that can be tailored to your schedule and preferences.
Mantrailing is a fantastic activity that offers numerous benefits for both you and your dog. By debunking these common myths, we hope to inspire pet owners to give mantrailing a try, regardless of their dog’s breed or energy level. The joy, mental stimulation, and strengthened bond you’ll experience with your pet are well worth the effort. So, grab your lead, follow the scent, and embark on an exciting mantrailing journey with your dog!
Check out the Doghampton Facebook page to start your journey.
Our dogs are not immune to stress. Just like humans, they can experience a range of emotional and physiological changes when faced with stressors. As responsible pet owners, it’s crucial to recognise these signs and understand the underlying science behind stress in dogs. Failure to recognise these very often leads to trigger stacking. (Check out our previous blog)
When dogs encounter stress, their bodies release stress hormones such as cortisol and adrenaline. These hormones trigger various physiological changes that impact their behaviour and overall well-being. A study conducted by Beerda et al. (1999) found that stress in dogs can lead to increased heart rate, blood pressure, and respiratory rate. Additionally, elevated cortisol levels can affect the immune system and impair digestion, contributing to a host of health issues.
Some Behavioural Signals of Stress in Dogs:
Excessive Barking or Howling: Stressed dogs may resort to excessive vocalisation as a way to express their anxiety or discomfort.
Pacing or Restlessness: Restlessness, pacing back and forth, or an inability to settle down can indicate heightened stress levels in dogs.
Excessive Panting or Drooling: When dogs are stressed, they may exhibit increased panting or drooling, as these physiological responses help regulate their body temperature during stressful situations.
Tail Tucking between the Legs: A tucked tail is often a clear sign of fear or anxiety in dogs. It indicates their desire to withdraw or protect themselves from the stressor.
Dilated Pupils: Stress can cause a dog’s pupils to dilate as a result of the increased release of adrenaline, preparing their bodies for a potential threat.
Excessive Scratching or Licking: Stressed dogs may engage in excessive scratching or licking, as stress can trigger skin sensitivities and allergies.
Reduced Appetite or Sudden Weight Loss: Just like humans, dogs may experience a loss of appetite or sudden weight loss during stressful periods. Stress can affect their digestive system, leading to decreased interest in food.
Aggression or Growling: Stress can manifest as aggression or growling in dogs. This behaviour serves as a defensive mechanism to protect themselves from perceived threats.
Trembling or Shaking: Trembling or shaking is a common physical manifestation of stress in dogs, indicating their heightened emotional state.
Excessive Yawning: Dogs may yawn excessively when under stress. Yawning in this context is not necessarily due to tiredness but rather as a coping mechanism to release tension.
Hiding or Seeking Solitude: Stressed dogs may seek isolation or hide in confined spaces as a way to cope with stressors.
Excessive Shedding: Increased shedding can be a sign of stress in dogs, as the body responds to stress by shedding hair more rapidly.
Excessive Vocalization: Some dogs may become vocal when stressed, whining or whimpering to express their discomfort.
Destructive Behavior: Stress can lead to destructive behaviour in dogs, such as chewing on furniture, shoes, or other objects, as a way to alleviate their anxiety.
Excessive Lethargy: While some dogs may become restless when stressed, others may display excessive lethargy, appearing sluggish or uninterested in their usual activities.
Excessive Licking of Lips: Stressed dogs may frequently lick their lips or nose as a self-soothing behaviour to relieve stress.
Frantic neediness: trying to climb up you jumping up, over friendly clingy behaviours.
Excessive Salivation: Excessive salivation, often resulting in the dog having a wet or foamy mouth, can be a sign of stress or anxiety.
Sudden Changes in Bathroom Habits: Stress can cause dogs to have accidents indoors or experience changes in their bathroom habits, such as increased frequency or difficulty urinating or defecating.
Avoidance Behavior: Stressed dogs may actively avoid certain people, places, or situations that they associate with stress, seeking to distance themselves from potential stressors.
Recognising these behavioral signals is vital, as it allows us to address the underlying causes of stress in our dogs. Some common stressors for dogs include changes in their environment, separation anxiety, lack of physical or mental stimulation, noise phobias, or unfamiliar situations.
To alleviate stress in dogs, it’s essential to provide a safe and stress-free environment that meets their physical and emotional needs. This can include regular exercise, mental stimulation, a consistent routine, positive reinforcement training
Understanding the signs of stress in dogs is crucial for their overall well-being. By recognising these behavioural signals and addressing the underlying causes, we can help our dogs lead happier and healthier lives. Remember, each dog is unique, and stress manifests differently in individuals. If you suspect your dog is experiencing stress, consult a professional to develop a tailored approach that suits their specific needs. Let’s prioritise the mental and emotional health of our dogs!
References:
Beerda, B., Schilder, M. B., van Hooff, J. A., de Vries, H. W., & Mol, J. A. (1999). Chronic stress in dogs subjected to social and spatial restriction. II. Hormonal and immunological responses. Physiology & Behavior, 66(2), 243-254. doi: 10.1016/s0031-9384(98)00327-7
Last night, my adorable dog Dozer suddenly transformed into a completely different creature. He exhibited reactive behaviour, which is not typical of him at all. We were sitting in a pub, patiently waiting for our food, when someone walked past with another dog. Normally, this wouldn’t have fazed him, but this time he abruptly lunged forward, barking so loudly that it startled everyone around us. His barking persisted, and we had to remove him from the room and take him outside. This is completely out of character for our baby Dozer.
So, what caused this sudden change? The answer is trigger stacking. Our recent experiences have been quite eventful as we are currently staying in a hotel near Southampton. While it sounds lovely, the past few days have been filled with various stressors for Dozer. It all started five days ago when we were still in Waxham, in our caravan. Thomas, who Dozer loves left to go home, and our pup began searching for him during every walk. Then, during a lunch outing, a dog sitting at the next table stared intently at Dozer, making him feel unsettled. Following that, we experienced three storm fronts with thunder throughout the night, which is never pleasant when living in a caravan.
The next morning, strong winds with 30mph gusts caused our awning to start separating from the caravan. We had to frantically empty its contents and take it down in high winds, creating a lot of noise and chaos. While we were finishing packing away tables and chairs, Dozer was let out to investigate. Unfortunately, in the mess, I accidentally trapped my finger in a folding table, causing a painful injury to my finger and blood to pour everywhere. Dozer became stressed and began to jump up at me almost trying to climb up me after sniffing all of the blood. The following night brought another storm, and yesterday morning, we embarked on a long five-hour drive to Southampton through horrendous weather. Arriving late at the hotel, Dozer, who had never been in a hotel before, couldn’t settle down. He spent most of the night pacing and grumbling at every noise.
All of these stressors and changes have been too much for my sweet Dozer to handle and recover from. Sometimes life becomes difficult to control, and our dogs struggle to keep up with the fast pace. This is my apology to my beloved dog and my confession of feeling like a less-than-perfect caretaker.
So what exactly is trigger stacking?
Trigger stacking in dogs occurs when multiple stressors or triggers accumulate, overwhelming the dog’s coping mechanisms and resulting in an exaggerated or inappropriate response. Similar to humans, dogs can experience stress from various sources like loud noises, unfamiliar environments, changes in routine, and interactions with other animals or people.
When a dog faces multiple stressors in a short period, these triggers can accumulate and have a cumulative effect. For instance, if a dog is already anxious due to a thunderstorm and then encounters a stranger entering their home, their reaction may be more intense compared to experiencing only one stressor at a time. This is because each trigger adds to the dog’s overall stress level, making it challenging for them to remain calm.
During trigger stacking, the body releases adrenaline and cortisol, stress hormones that prepare the dog for a fight-or-flight response. It takes time for these hormones to return to normal levels, and the dog’s body to reach homeostasis. This is why it’s crucial to manage trigger stacking and prevent it from occurring in the first place.
Once we are back home, I will give Dozer a few days of normality to allow his cortisol levels to reduce (which can take up to 3 days). After that, I will gradually reintroduce him to pubs and cafes, taking small steps to ensure he doesn’t generalise his behaviour to all eating places. It is important to plan and organize this process carefully. If I miss the signs of him becoming uneasy and allow him to become overwhelmed to the point of reacting with an outburst, we risk creating a pattern.
Although trigger stacking led to this behaviour, in Dozer’s mind, barking and lunging were attempts to make the other dog go away. By removing him from the situation, this goal was achieved. I’m not suggesting that we should have moved him outside to calm down because we most certainly should have, but rather pointing out that mismanaging the situation could create a pattern where Dozer believes barking and lunging leads to the removal of the perceived threat.
This is often where reactive behaviour starts. Owners may either avoid the situation entirely, which means the dog never learns how to react appropriately other than barking and lunging, or they continue to expose the dog to the situation but in excessive amounts, resulting in a cycle of bark-lunge-removal. This can be incredibly frustrating for both the owner and the dog.
To visualize the situation, imagine it as a game of buckeroo, with the original trigger being the full load that causes the donkey to buck. To start, we need to have just one or two items on the saddle, then stop and give time between sessions to remove the items and allow your dog to process and recover.
Remember, each dog is unique, so it’s always recommended to consult with a professional dog trainer or behaviourist who can provide personalised guidance and support based on your dog’s specific needs
Mantrailing is like no other activity or sport that you can take part in with your pet dog. It is completely unique dog training in many ways but quite interestingly, it can help solve a number of unwanted behavioural problems that may challenge your every day life with your dog such as fear, hyperactivity, phobias, stress, anxiety, reactivity and aggression.
Mantrailing is allowing the dog to make the right choices independently and will be much more satisfying and prioritising the preferred habits in the brain. It has the effect that over time, it changes unwanted habitual behavior and shapes new behavior that is the final, desired goal. It interrupts and redirects unwanted dog behavior, will give the dog satisfaction and can be therapeutic. This, in turn, will provide various benefits and will give you and the dog more confidence and stress free experiences.
These dog behaviours can lead to you becoming extremely isolated with your dog and having stressful and disappointing experiences and missing out on taking part in various activities or even simple dog walks.
Mantrailing is the ultimate sport for turning a pessimist into an optimist!
It is one of the very few sports where the dog can work freely and the handler can enjoy watching their dog work. It is all about putting the dog in control and the handlers taking a back seat and watching how the dog works tricky trails out themselves. Through this, the handler learns to read the dogs body language, which creates a great bond and ultimately will equate to further progression in their behavioural and every-day training.
By taking part in Mantrailing, both you and your dog become a team – the best team imaginable! You will achieve success after success together, getting a buzz each time a missing person is found.
This will also help with building the dog’s confidence and self-esteem up in a very short period of time. It helps the dog to become less stressed, relax, learn a new game and have endless fun along the way. By working as a team, the dog will naturally want to engage with their handler and learn.
A dog’s nose dominates its brain, so naturally Mantrailing provides mental, intellectual stimulation for your dog, providing an exceptional workout for the brain, tiring them out without the need for physical exercise. This is perfect for dogs that are still bouncing around the house after endless walks, puppies, elderly dogs or dogs that are unable to complete as much physical exercise for one reason or another.
“It is invaluable dog training.”
It´s not competitive or over arousing like some other dog sports. It is fantastic at getting the dogs to solve problems, which in turn will build confidence and make the dog more likely to respond to behavioural modification training as the dog will want to engage and learn. This will help to change the dog’s reaction to certain situations such as a person, a dog, another animal or person.
“By making Mantrailing the best game ever, we change the priorities for the dog.”
Behaviour, that has become habitual for the dog, such as chasing a runner or barking at another dog, can be challenging to reverse. By making Mantrailing, which is a natural game, more fun, exciting and rewarding, we are changing the priorities for the dog. All over sudden, chasing that bike isn´t as important as following the trail that leads to receiving the best reward. A lot of dogs find trailing rewarding in itself.
Once the dog understands the concept of Mantrailing, which happens usually within the first session, there is no stopping them from doing their ‘job’. The dogs are extremely intent on following the trail to find their missing person, that whatever or whoever gets in their way is completely ignored. This has, for expample, enabled dog reactive dogs to ignore any other dogs on or near their trail.
Nervous dogs have been brave enough to pass objects or scenarios they once wouldn’t pass or take food from strangers that they might not normally approach.
Olfaction is believed to be the dogs’ most powerful and perhaps important sense. Their sensory world is impressively different from ours, they observe their world through relentless sniffing and scent discrimination. Dogs can have up to 300 million olfactory cells, whereas us humans have only about 15 million.
“It is believed that they can detect a tea spoon of sugar in an olympic sized pool.”
Canine olfaction is a growing area of scientific investigation and there are many new applications surfacing every year. The dogs’ brain is build around the information it gets from scent which is closely linked to emotions. Endorphins are chemicals that are produced in the brain during times of stimulation and excitement, they create feelings of calmness and happiness and decrease stress and anxiety.
When endorphin levels are too low the dog is likely to feel under a lot of stress, which can result in undesired or obsessive behaviours that the dogs use as a mechanism to cope. Anything that induces pain or excitement boosts endorphin levels, so a dog could chew his own paw, spin, or chase shadows all day as their way of creating enough endorphins for normal function.
The more the brain can be engaged and challenged with new behaviours, the more relaxed and content the dog will be. Stimulating the dog mentally and physically can help it cope with lower than average levels of endorphins being produced.
So what are you waiting for? Get trailing!
To find out more about Mantrailing and how to get involved, visit our events page or join our Facebook group “Mantrailing Association UK”
This is written by a good friend of mine the legend that is Denise Price. Aka ‘gripper’
There is a link to her page below please take a look.
The Triangle of Play
There are 3 essential ingredients to play – the dog, the toy … and you. It is all three of these components that make the play really fun, and make up what I like to call “The Triangle of Play”. Leave a toy static in a toy box: your dog may pick it up once in a while, but will soon lose interest. Yet if you pick up the toy and generate some energy with it, you’ll also pick up your dog’s interest, and there you have the “Triangle of Play”: dog, toy and handler.
Play has been a theme in class recently, and spurred on by my colleague Samantha Dobson, I’ve got round to blogging it so that I can share it with you.
So, let’s play!
Why play?
It is really important to play with your dog. Play helps strengthen your bond with your dog:
“Most types of play appear to improve social cohesion between humans and dogs, increasing their familiarity and reducing agonistic interactions” (Somerville et al, 2017 [3])
The more you engage in the right kind of play, the better the bond with your dog can get:
“Play frequency and form may therefore be an indicator of the quality of dog-owner relationships.” (Bradshaw et al, 2014 [4])
Creating a good toy drive also gives you another reward option – sometimes food just doesn’t cut it.
But I don’t know how to play!
If you’re like me, you might find “playing” difficult at first. I love structured activities – when I play with my 8-year old son, we often do arts & crafts, board games, Lego, etc. However, when it comes to imaginative play, role play, then I begin to flounder after a few minutes. Somewhere on the journey to adulthood inhibitions have crept in, and play can become stilted and awkward unless I “let go” and properly engage with him. It takes a conscious effort for me to do it; hopefully I’ll get there before he grows up all too quickly!
Not knowing how to play with their dog affects many of my students in class; they worry they’re “not doing it right”. I love teaching my two dogs Mabel and Murphy tricks, agility, obedience and so on. It’s fun for me – structured, enjoyable fun. But that is not playing.
When I watch Mabel & Murphy play together, I imagine that I’d be hard pressed to match the fun factor they generate. They take turns to chase, dart around, duck and dive, sometimes have a little tussle, sometimes play tug-of-war with gusto. It all looks brilliant fun. How can I match that? The good news is that I don’t have to – that isn’t comparing like with like. Dog’s view playing with other dogs quite differently to playing with a human. With the former it has more of a competitive element;
“when the play-partner is a person, however, the important thing is the social contact that the game produces” (Bradshaw, 2011, p.204 [1]).
It is you that makes the game fun!
We can learn to play. In November last year, I invited Craig Ogilvie to come to my Haynes workshops to give me kick-start in Interactive Play [5] – and if you can get to one of his popular sessions then do! The triangle picture is me playing with Mabel under Craig’s guidance. My take home (or rather, take to the training class) points were to really engage with her, don’t be afraid to get puffed out, go for it, let the dog get the toy.
Note: if your dog has resource guarding / behavioural issues, consult your behaviourist for advice before embarking on play with your dog.
The Triangle of Play: Dog, Toy, Handler
1. The Dog
How will your dog like playing? Think a little about your dog’s breed – what are they designed to do? A toy breed may have very different ideas about what constitutes a good game compared to a terrier, or a gun dog, or a working dog.
Hundreds of years of breeding will have a big influence on which bits of the predatory motor patterns
they exhibit. It is well known that Border Collie’s are bred to have “the eye”; they exhibit ORIENT > EYE-STALK > CHASE very strongly to ensure that they work their flocks successfully. To generalise, Border Collie’s should prefer games that involve movement and chasing – so a toy attached to a flirt pole and you working the chase might be a good option for them. Terriers are bred to hunt out and kill vermin so exhibit CHASE > GRAB-BITE > KILL-BITE > HEAD-SHAKE > DISSECT motor patterns – so they should enjoy getting a good grab of a small furry toy, and having a really good rag on it (but don’t expect the toy to last long!). Ideally, retrieval gun dogs should prefer to retrieve their quarry, but it’d be a poor show at a shoot if they dissected the game: their motor patterns would typically be: ORIENT > CHASE > GRAB-BITE (Coppinger and Coppinger, 2004, p.210). So they might prefer not to engage in a full on head shake with their tug game; holding the toy may suffice.
This gives you some idea about how they will go about playing, but do bear in mind that every dog is an individual: see breed as a guide rather than a universal law.
2. The Toy
What toy will your dog like playing with? That’s really up to your dog!
Think about the texture of the toy – what do they prefer to hold in their mouth – canvas, fur, rope, smooth rubber, textured rubber, felt (e.g., tennis ball covering)? Think about the size of your dog – their toy has to comfortably fit in their mouth, can they get a good grip on it without it being a choke hazard? Does a squeaky toy excite them? As the play needs to involve you, it is helpful that you choose something you can easily get hold of (or attach to a flirt pole). If your dog is a little “mouthy” make sure there’s enough length in the toy to ensure no accidental mouth to hand contact.
The ideal toy could be a tennis ball stuffed in a knotted sock if your dog is a little bit ball (or sock) obsessed. If a ball on a rope is their thing, pick a rope width and ball size that’s appropriate to their mouth size. Maybe a long plaited fleece would suit a dog that prefers a soft feel to its “prey” but also prefers a little distance from his handler (or vice versa!). Some dogs may love a furry squeaky toy, others may prefer a canvas one. Rubber hoops are good (pullers).
A fair few dogs I know love collecting plastic bottles – they like the crinkly noise they make when they are crunched – so “upcycle” a bottle, pop it in an old footie sock. Remember, it’s what floats your dog’s boat, so think about what they naturally make a beeline for. See reference [7] for ideas from tug-e-nuff. Trial and error will play a part until you hit the jackpot. Once you do, keep that toy aside – it is the special toy for your “Triangle of Play”, so only get it out for your play sessions.
3. The Handler: YOU
Playing with your dog and their toy:
Make the toy really exciting by wiggling it around, lots of movement; your energy and vocalisations should really get the dog going. Don’t waft it in front of your dog’s face; instead whizz it around at ground level to encourage your dog to EYE-STALK > CHASE the toy. Lose your inhibitions, don’t be shy! As long as your dog is excited to watch and chase the toy, that could be enough play for your first session. Keep it brief and lively, no more than a couple of minutes to begin with, and then pop the toy away – leave the dog wanting more!
If your dog grabs and bites the toy, praise them with a “Good Hold”. It doesn’t matter if they don’t get a hold of it in your first few sessions, they will soon get the idea and engage with the you and the toy as their confidence grows – they might just look at it and follow it with their eyes the first few times, then next time begin to chase and sniff it, in later sessions perhaps chase and grab then release, before finally chasing, grabbing and holding. Take your time over several short cheerful sessions to develop the hold. Once they do take a hold of the you, encourage them to keep hold of it. Move with the dog, with cheerful vocalisations and plenty of praise.
When your dog has hold of the toy, tug at it with them – a swishing side to side motion is ideal. Avoid raising the toy upwards with the dog attached to it – we’re not interested in developing a strong jaw, we’re looking at light hearted jolly play. Your dog may offer some vocalisations – go with it, they’re having fun!
Once they’ve got the hang of holding the toy, teach them to release the toy. You’ll need another toy. Make toy no.1 really exciting by wiggling it around, lots of movement; your energy and vocalisations should really get the dog going. Once the dog has seized the toy, say “Good Hold”, and encourage some tugging. When you are ready, toy no.1 becomes ‘dead’ – you stop moving it and disengage from play (but do not release the toy). But all of a sudden you whip out toy no.2, and now it’s all about toy no.2. Really go for it! If you’re a bit puffed out and feel like a wally, you’re probably doing it right! Once your dog is reliably releasing the toy in exchange for another one, you can introduce your “Out” cue word. Click here for a nice video example from Steve Mann of the IMDT [6].
To avoid frustration, let them win the toy – it is rewarding and will make them want to play more: “The majority of dogs do not seem to regard competitive games played with a human partner as “dominance” contests: rather, winning possession of objects during games appears to be simply rewarding. “ (Bradshaw et al, 2014 [4])
The extent of the hold/tug really depends on your dog. Some dogs will hold on for dear life, whereas others will just have a little nibble and tug. The engagement is what matters, not the tug.
So long as it is right for your dog, you’re doing it right!
So, go and play with your dog – use the “Triangle of Play” to build your bond with your dog.
All images and text Copyright: Denise Price, 18 June 2018.
John Bradshaw, In Defence of Dogs (2011), London, Penguin Books.
Raymond Coppinger and Lorna Coppinger, Dogs (2004), London, Crosskeys Select Books.
Sommerville, R., O’Connor, E.A., Asher, L., Applied Animal Behaviour Science (2017), Why do dogs play? Function and welfare implications of play in the domestic dog, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.applanim.2017.09.007
The UK as the animal loving nation that is it known for has lead the way in animal welfare changes for the last century, so you would anticipate the statistics regarding animal welfare issues to have decreased with it?. However between 2013 and 2015 3000 people were convicted of animal cruelty but only 7 % of these received a custodial sentence. (RSPCA 2018) in 2018 the RSPCA rescued more than 102900 animals and investigated a total of 130700 cruelty complaints only 1678 of these cases resulted in prosecution. So have the changes in legislation helped pet welfare?
A BBC report
stated that in 2009 Battersea Dogs home euthanized a total of 2815 dogs 1931 of
these for behavioural and temperament issues. BBC (2010),
Are the laws
promoting awareness or are they part of the problem?
As The Animal Welfare Act 2006 now pushes the responsibility for duty of care,
more and more people are seeking the help of ‘professionals’ as the vast
majority of dog owners are aware that training and exercise are vital to ensure
a well balanced happy dog that can be integrated into society.
So why are there so many dogs that need help
with behaviour problems. The canine world is a confusing place, for dogs, owners
and people that work within it. Media ‘experts’ are all over our screens now,
each dishing out their own approach to solving problems. This is still an
unregulated field and there is no single professional governing body to ensure
certain standards are adhered to. In the hands of an inexperienced or misled professional
the very issues the dogs are displaying can become exaggerated to the point the
dog is surrendered and or put to sleep.
Under the Animal Welfare act this ‘professional’ does have an obligation to work within the guide lines of this law. So any walker, pet sitter, trainer or behaviourist that works with a dog has a responsibility for not only the dog, but also its actions whilst under their instruction! They also have a duty of care to ensure the dogs welfare needs are met and that it does not unnecessarilysuffer. While working with a fearful dog if the wrong approach is taken or the correct programme rushed the dog could very likely be subjected to unnecessary suffering in the form of stress or fear, and the ‘professional’ will be held responsible for it. This responsibility reaches further than just the basic needs of the dog. The Control of Dogs Order 1992, states a collar must be worn with adequate detail whilst the dog is in a public place if the dog has no owner details whilst in the custody of a another person then they will be accountable. As is the same under the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 section 3 clearly states that a dangerously out of control dog in public place is a criminal offence and whomever is in charge of the dog at the time will be deemed accountable for its actions.
“BUT MY DOG WOULDN’T HURT ANYONE” I hear you say and you are probably correct however you need to understand what defines a dog as dangerously out of control. The Control of dogs order defines a dangerously out of control dog as:
A dog
that not just injures someone which you would expect but one that a person has grounds for
reasonable apprehension that it may do so. The implications of this are momentous,
if training or walking a reactive dog a member of the public comes to close and
the dog lunges barking at them even though they have not made contact with that
person and the situation has been controlled very quickly, The dog can still be
reported as it could be deemed to have caused the person a reasonable
apprehension that it may injure them. This could lead to the dog being seized. Even something
as everyday as a dog chasing, barking or jumping up at someone could lead to a
complaint. If the dog happened to break free and injure a member of the public
during a session this would mean the dog may never be returned home to it family
and could very likely be destroyed.
Safety and understanding of the implication of the law need to be the main priority for anyone working with dogs. Ability to interpret canine body language and continually managing the environment you are working within will reduce the risks and likelihood of any incident happening.
Professionals taking money for services from the public have a duty of care not only to ensure they abide by the law but they understand the implication if things go wrong and to also explain and assist you the owner as the same situation could quite easily happen. Did you know that your dog jumping up to say hello could get your lovable pup reported as a dangerous dog more importantly does the person you are paying know!
BBC (2010) Press Office, Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk (Accessed:
28/05/2019).
RSPCA. (2019) Facts and figures, Available at: http://www.rspca.org.uk (Accessed:
28/05/2019).
the national archives (2019) The Dangerous dogs act 1991, Available
at: http://www.legislation.gov.uk (Accessed: 25/05/2019).
UK SCENT SPORT 