Fireworks and Dogs: Why the Sky Exploding Freaks Them Out (and How You Can Help)

It’s not just about training!!

Every year, the UK calendar is packed with firework nights Bonfire Night, New Year’s Eve, Diwali, summer festivals. For us, it’s a sparkle show. For dogs, it’s basically: “The world is ending, run for cover!”

And science backs this up: up to 50% of dogs show fear of fireworks and other loud noises (Tiira et al., 2016, Scientific Reports). The signs can range from trembling to chewing through doors in a desperate escape attempt. Not fun for them, not fun for you.

I hope this guide blends research, practical solutions, and a dash of humour to help you understand what’s going on in your dog’s head and what you can do to help.

Let’s start with why dogs are terrified of fireworks

1. Super-hearing = super awful

Dogs hear at much higher frequencies than humans (up to 65 kHz, compared to our 20 kHz). That “pop” you shrug at? To them, it’s like standing next to a cannon (Heffner, 1983, Behavioral and Neural Biology).

2. It’s not just noise

Yes, the bang is the main culprit, but fireworks are a multi-sensory nightmare:

Sudden bright flashes Vibrations in the ground and walls The chemical smell of smoke And crucially, unpredictability

Dogs don’t think “celebration.” They think “sky grenades.”

3. Surprise is everything

Thunder gives a build-up. Fireworks? Pure jump scare. Imagine Netflix turning your rom-com into a horror movie without warning.

4. Hardwired survival mode

Dogs evolved to react quickly to sudden loud noises in the wild, it could mean predators or danger. Their brain doesn’t know the difference between a predator and a Catherine wheel (Overall, 2013, Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats).

5. Memory that won’t quit

One bad firework experience and your dog files it under “Never Forget.” Next time, a flash or bang triggers panic before the actual noise even starts.

How common is this, really

Multiple population studies put noise sensitivity at roughly 32 to 39 percent of dogs, with fireworks commonly named, and with notable co occurrence alongside other fears.

Noise vs flashes: what science says

Studies consistently show that noise is the number one trigger (Sherman & Mills, 2008, Journal of Veterinary Behavior). Dogs are most distressed by the loud, sudden, unpredictable bangs.

But flashes, smells, and vibrations make things worse. Some dogs even learn to anticipate the bang after the flash cue more stress before the sound arrives. It’s rarely one or the other; it’s usually both working together to overwhelm your dog’s senses.

So what fear looks like in dogs

Signs vary, but common ones include:

Trembling, panting, drooling Ears pinned back, tail tucked Hiding or clinging Barking, whining, howling Refusing food Escape attempts (scratching, chewing, bolting)

At its worst, dogs can injure themselves or develop long-term noise phobias (Blackwell et al., 2013, Applied Animal Behaviour Science).

The science of what works (and what doesn’t)

Research has actually compared different strategies. Here’s the breakdown (Riemer, 2020, Journal of Veterinary Behavior):

✔ Counterconditioning (bang = treat) – effective for 70%+ of dogs

✔ Desensitisation (gradual noise exposure) – works long-term if started early

✔ Relaxation training – helps dogs cope better in stressful moments

✔ Safe zones & sound masking – reduce stress load

✔ Pressure wraps (ThunderShirt) – mixed results, helps some dogs

✔ Medication (vet-prescribed) – very effective in severe cases

⚠ Herbal remedies, supplements, pheromone sprays – mixed or weak evidence. They may help mild cases, but they’re not a magic bullet.

Key principles science, and no myths!!

Fear is an emotion, not a trick When your dog is shaking, panting, and hiding under the table, they are not “being naughty” or “trying it on.” Fear is an emotional response driven by the limbic system, not a conscious choice. You cannot “reinforce” fear by offering comfort or food any more than you can make someone more terrified of spiders by giving them chocolate or a hug after they scream. Blackwell et al. (2013) and Sherman & Mills (2008) both emphasise noise fears as emotional states requiring support, not punishment. In Riemer (2020), owner reports showed counterconditioning literally feeding after bangs was one of the most effective strategies.

If food could reinforce fear, every time you handed someone popcorn during a horror movie, they’d become more terrified. Spoiler, they don’t.

Thresholds matter Dogs can only learn when they are under threshold. Once your dog is trembling so much they cannot eat, the learning train has left the station. You can’t do algebra on a rollercoaster. At that point, comfort, safety, and possibly medication are the only ethical options. Riemer (2023) stresses that desensitisation and counterconditioning must happen at levels that do not elicit panic.

Early practice changes brains Counterconditioning needs to start before the big bangs. Use TV recordings of fireworks, playlists on YouTube, or even video clips with both flash and sound. Start so low your dog barely notices, pair with treats, play, or calm petting. Slowly increase volume and intensity. Pavlov 101: Classical conditioning works by changing associations, not by bribing behaviour.

Think of it like chilli sauce. Start with mild salsa, not ghost peppers. Otherwise you end up with tears, snot, and regrets!

Comfort is not a crime Comforting a fearful dog does not make them “weaker.” Studies show dogs seek social support from humans in stressful situations, and our calm presence can reduce stress hormone levels (Mariti et al., 2012, Physiology & Behavior). You are their safe person. Be safe.

If your best friend is having a meltdown and you hand them a cup of tea, you don’t make them more likely to meltdown tomorrow. You just stop them from burning the house down tonight. Same with dogs.

Our three-stage survival plan

Stage 1: Prep (weeks before)

Build a safe zone Quiet room, blackout curtains, comfy bedding, white noise. Think luxury bunker, not prison cell. The more your dog learns to relax here in everyday life, the more effective it will be when fireworks kick off. Desensitisation & counterconditioning Firework playlist on whisper volume, food for calm behaviour, then slowly increasing over days or weeks.

Research shows counterconditioning (bang = treat/chicken) works in over 70% of cases (Riemer 2020). Humour note: Training during fireworks is not “surprise algebra,” it’s “tiny maths problems with sweets as prizes.” Keep it small and sweet. Relaxation cue Teach your dog to settle on a mat with a calm word. It sounds twee, but research backs this up (Riemer 2020 69% owner-reported effectiveness).

Think yoga class, but with fewer leggings and more liver treats. Introduce calming aids early ThunderShirts, Adaptil diffusers, Zylkene supplements. Introduce them during chill times, not five minutes before the sky explodes.

Logistics Walk and feed before dark, check ID tags, update microchips, and for dogs who go nuclear, get vet-prescribed medication ahead of time. Trial it on a quiet night so you don’t discover side effects mid-finale.

Stage 2: During the fireworks

Stay calm yourself Dogs read our body language and emotions. If you’re leaping around yelling “IT’S OKAY, IT’S OKAY,” your dog will think you’ve lost the plot. Breathe, sit, and be boringly calm. Allow hiding Don’t drag them from their den. Hiding is a natural coping strategy. They are not being “antisocial,” they are being smart survivalists. Use counterconditioning, if possible If your dog is calm enough to eat, use “bang = cheese.” Research says this shifts emotional responses over time (Riemer 2020).

If your dog won’t eat, stop trying. At that point, the brain is in panic mode and learning is paused.

Trying to train when your dog is over threshold is like handing someone a sandwich mid-bungee jump. Nice thought, wrong timing.

Distract before with enrichment Puzzle feeders, stuffed Kongs, lick mats. The act of licking and chewing activates calming pathways in the brain (Horowitz et al., 2019). Mask the noise Classical music, white noise, or TV can reduce the starkness of bangs (Kogan et al., 2012). Medication if needed For dogs that melt down, this is not failure, it’s welfare. Research shows medication is effective and humane when fears are severe (Sherman & Mills, 2008).

Stage 3: After

Recovery time

When the bangs finally stop, your dog’s body doesn’t flick a switch back to calm. During fireworks their system floods with adrenaline (for immediate fight or flight) and cortisol (the stress hormone that lingers). Adrenaline burns off within minutes to hours, but cortisol can stay elevated for up to 48–72 hours in dogs, which means their brain and body may not return to homeostasis (normal balance) straight away. Some dogs shake it off quickly, others need a couple of quiet days to reset. During this period, keep routines predictable, avoid extra stressors, and add gentle, sniffy walks that allow decompression without pressure.

Review what worked

Once your dog is calmer, take stock. Did they eat? Did the safe zone help? Did enrichment hold their attention? Make notes now so you can refine your plan for next year instead of winging it again when rockets start flying.

Seek help if it’s escalating

If your dog isn’t bouncing back, or each year seems worse, that’s your sign to get support. Early intervention prevents entrenched noise phobias. Reward-based behaviourists and vets can help design tailored plans and if medication is needed, it’s a welfare tool, not a failure.

Think of it like your dog had a wild night out they never wanted. While you’re ready to move on, their brain chemistry is still hungover. Dim the lights, keep things chill, and don’t invite them to karaoke just yet.

Final word

Fireworks won’t go away, but fear doesn’t have to rule your dog’s life. The recipe is simple: start early, stay calm, use science, and ignore old myths.

Your dog is not being dramatic. To them, fireworks are sky grenades, alien lasers, and smoke bombs rolled into one. Their logic is simple: bunker down until the world stops exploding. Our job is to help them feel safe, build new positive associations, and have medical backup when needed.

How to Help a Nervous Rescue Dog Adjust to Its New Home with Force-Free Training

Bringing home a rescue dog is an incredibly rewarding experience, but let’s be honest sometimes it feels like you’ve just adopted a furry little question mark. One minute they’re cautiously sniffing around, and the next, they’re hiding behind the couch like it’s a zombie apocalypse. If your new pup is on the nervous side, don’t worry force-free training, tapping into the natural desires and patience can work wonders.

Meet Goose – My Own Rescue Success Story

Before we start, let me introduce you to Goose, my own rescue dog. When Goose first arrived, he was anxious and unsure of his new surroundings. With patience, positive reinforcement, and force-free training, he slowly blossomed into the confident (so of the time) and loving companion he is today. His journey inspired me to help other dogs adjust and thrive, which is a large part of the work DogHampton in Northamptonshire do, we are dedicated to force-free training and helping dogs build trust with their humans.

Once Goose had settled, we introduced track trailing as a way to build his confidence. This safe, on-lead activity allowed him to tap into his natural instincts to hunt and follow scents while giving him a structured way to engage with the world around him. Since he was securely on a lead, we didn’t have to worry about his lack of recall, and he absolutely thrived with this newfound job! Watching him follow a trail with excitement and determination was a game-changer in his journey toward confidence.

Step 1: Give Them Time to Decompress

Imagine you just moved to a foreign country where you don’t speak the language, the food is weird, and the locals (that’s you) keep staring at you expectantly. Overwhelming, right? That’s exactly how your rescue dog feels.

Create a quiet, cozy space where they can retreat.
Keep introductions slow—let them come to you instead of overwhelming them with affection.
Stick to a consistent routine to build a sense of security.

Step 2: Build Trust with Positive Reinforcement

Force-free training is the gold standard for gaining a nervous rescue dog’s trust. This means no yelling, no harsh corrections, and definitely no dominance-based techniques. Instead, let’s bribe I mean, motivate them with tasty rewards and praise.

Use high-value treats (think chicken, cheese, or whatever makes their tail wag like a propeller).
Mark and reward calm behaviours if they sit or make eye contact, praise them.
Respect their space forcing interaction can backfire. Let them approach you in their own time.

Step 3: Teach Basic Cues at Home

So, what’s the best way to train my dog at home? Short, positive sessions in a quiet environment. Nervous dogs thrive when they understand what’s expected of them, so start with simple cues.

Sit and Down – These give your dog something to focus on besides their worries.
Touch (target training) – Encourages engagement in a non-threatening way.
Mat training – Teaches them that their bed is a safe, rewarding place.

Step 4: Socialisation—At Their Pace

Rescue dogs often have a history, and we don’t always know the full story. That’s why socialisation should be gentle and gradual.

Start with low-distraction environments before heading to busier places.
Let them observe from a distance before encouraging interaction.
Keep interactions with other dogs and people short and positive.

Step 5: Addressing Fear-Based Behaviours

If your dog reacts nervously (barking, cowering, freezing), resist the urge to punish them. Instead:

Identify triggers and work on desensitisation.
Allow them to retreat from the trigger, build trust and become your dogs ‘safe space’.
Pair scary things with rewards (e.g., if they’re scared of the vacuum, give treats when it’s off and gradually when it’s on).
Use calming tools like snuffle mats, lick mats, or anxiety wraps.
Timing is crucial, contact a professional to help

Step 6: Be Patient, Celebrate Small Wins

Progress won’t always be linear some days, your dog will feel brave, and others, they might regress. That’s totally normal! Celebrate the small victories, whether it’s the first tail wag or finally venturing into the kitchen without hesitation.

Final Thoughts

Learning how to train a rescue dog isn’t about quick fixes it’s about building trust, confidence, and a lasting bond. Force-free training ensures they feel safe while learning the ropes of their new life. With patience, love, and a little humour, your rescue dog will go from nervous newbie to confident companion in no time!

Bonus Tip: If you’re feeling stuck, consider working with a force-free trainer who can offer guidance tailored to your dog’s unique needs. If you’re in Northamptonshire, DogHampton is here to help, just like we helped Goose!🐾

Recognising Behavioral Signals and understanding Stress in Dogs

Our dogs are not immune to stress. Just like humans, they can experience a range of emotional and physiological changes when faced with stressors. As responsible pet owners, it’s crucial to recognise these signs and understand the underlying science behind stress in dogs. Failure to recognise these very often leads to trigger stacking. (Check out our previous blog)

When dogs encounter stress, their bodies release stress hormones such as cortisol and adrenaline. These hormones trigger various physiological changes that impact their behaviour and overall well-being. A study conducted by Beerda et al. (1999) found that stress in dogs can lead to increased heart rate, blood pressure, and respiratory rate. Additionally, elevated cortisol levels can affect the immune system and impair digestion, contributing to a host of health issues.

Some Behavioural Signals of Stress in Dogs:

Excessive Barking or Howling:
Stressed dogs may resort to excessive vocalisation as a way to express their anxiety or discomfort.
Pacing or Restlessness:
Restlessness, pacing back and forth, or an inability to settle down can indicate heightened stress levels in dogs.
Excessive Panting or Drooling:
When dogs are stressed, they may exhibit increased panting or drooling, as these physiological responses help regulate their body temperature during stressful situations.
Tail Tucking between the Legs:
A tucked tail is often a clear sign of fear or anxiety in dogs. It indicates their desire to withdraw or protect themselves from the stressor.
Dilated Pupils:
Stress can cause a dog’s pupils to dilate as a result of the increased release of adrenaline, preparing their bodies for a potential threat.
Excessive Scratching or Licking:
Stressed dogs may engage in excessive scratching or licking, as stress can trigger skin sensitivities and allergies.
Reduced Appetite or Sudden Weight Loss:
Just like humans, dogs may experience a loss of appetite or sudden weight loss during stressful periods. Stress can affect their digestive system, leading to decreased interest in food.
Aggression or Growling:
Stress can manifest as aggression or growling in dogs. This behaviour serves as a defensive mechanism to protect themselves from perceived threats.
Trembling or Shaking:
Trembling or shaking is a common physical manifestation of stress in dogs, indicating their heightened emotional state.
Excessive Yawning:
Dogs may yawn excessively when under stress. Yawning in this context is not necessarily due to tiredness but rather as a coping mechanism to release tension.
Hiding or Seeking Solitude:
Stressed dogs may seek isolation or hide in confined spaces as a way to cope with stressors.
Excessive Shedding:
Increased shedding can be a sign of stress in dogs, as the body responds to stress by shedding hair more rapidly.
Excessive Vocalization:
Some dogs may become vocal when stressed, whining or whimpering to express their discomfort.
Destructive Behavior:
Stress can lead to destructive behaviour in dogs, such as chewing on furniture, shoes, or other objects, as a way to alleviate their anxiety.
Excessive Lethargy:
While some dogs may become restless when stressed, others may display excessive lethargy, appearing sluggish or uninterested in their usual activities.
Excessive Licking of Lips:
Stressed dogs may frequently lick their lips or nose as a self-soothing behaviour to relieve stress.
Frantic neediness: trying to climb up you jumping up, over friendly clingy behaviours.
Excessive Salivation:
Excessive salivation, often resulting in the dog having a wet or foamy mouth, can be a sign of stress or anxiety.
Sudden Changes in Bathroom Habits:
Stress can cause dogs to have accidents indoors or experience changes in their bathroom habits, such as increased frequency or difficulty urinating or defecating.
Avoidance Behavior:
Stressed dogs may actively avoid certain people, places, or situations that they associate with stress, seeking to distance themselves from potential stressors.

Recognising these behavioral signals is vital, as it allows us to address the underlying causes of stress in our dogs. Some common stressors for dogs include changes in their environment, separation anxiety, lack of physical or mental stimulation, noise phobias, or unfamiliar situations.

To alleviate stress in dogs, it’s essential to provide a safe and stress-free environment that meets their physical and emotional needs. This can include regular exercise, mental stimulation, a consistent routine, positive reinforcement training

Understanding the signs of stress in dogs is crucial for their overall well-being. By recognising these behavioural signals and addressing the underlying causes, we can help our dogs lead happier and healthier lives. Remember, each dog is unique, and stress manifests differently in individuals. If you suspect your dog is experiencing stress, consult a professional to develop a tailored approach that suits their specific needs. Let’s prioritise the mental and emotional health of our dogs!

References:

Beerda, B., Schilder, M. B., van Hooff, J. A., de Vries, H. W., & Mol, J. A. (1999). Chronic stress in dogs subjected to social and spatial restriction. II. Hormonal and immunological responses. Physiology & Behavior, 66(2), 243-254. doi: 10.1016/s0031-9384(98)00327-7

I broke my dog!

Last night, my adorable dog Dozer suddenly transformed into a completely different creature. He exhibited reactive behaviour, which is not typical of him at all. We were sitting in a pub, patiently waiting for our food, when someone walked past with another dog. Normally, this wouldn’t have fazed him, but this time he abruptly lunged forward, barking so loudly that it startled everyone around us. His barking persisted, and we had to remove him from the room and take him outside. This is completely out of character for our baby Dozer.

So, what caused this sudden change? The answer is trigger stacking. Our recent experiences have been quite eventful as we are currently staying in a hotel near Southampton. While it sounds lovely, the past few days have been filled with various stressors for Dozer. It all started five days ago when we were still in Waxham, in our caravan. Thomas, who Dozer loves left to go home, and our pup began searching for him during every walk. Then, during a lunch outing, a dog sitting at the next table stared intently at Dozer, making him feel unsettled. Following that, we experienced three storm fronts with thunder throughout the night, which is never pleasant when living in a caravan.

The next morning, strong winds with 30mph gusts caused our awning to start separating from the caravan. We had to frantically empty its contents and take it down in high winds, creating a lot of noise and chaos. While we were finishing packing away tables and chairs, Dozer was let out to investigate. Unfortunately, in the mess, I accidentally trapped my finger in a folding table, causing a painful injury to my finger and blood to pour everywhere. Dozer became stressed and began to jump up at me almost trying to climb up me after sniffing all of the blood. The following night brought another storm, and yesterday morning, we embarked on a long five-hour drive to Southampton through horrendous weather. Arriving late at the hotel, Dozer, who had never been in a hotel before, couldn’t settle down. He spent most of the night pacing and grumbling at every noise.

All of these stressors and changes have been too much for my sweet Dozer to handle and recover from. Sometimes life becomes difficult to control, and our dogs struggle to keep up with the fast pace. This is my apology to my beloved dog and my confession of feeling like a less-than-perfect caretaker.

So what exactly is trigger stacking?

Trigger stacking in dogs occurs when multiple stressors or triggers accumulate, overwhelming the dog’s coping mechanisms and resulting in an exaggerated or inappropriate response. Similar to humans, dogs can experience stress from various sources like loud noises, unfamiliar environments, changes in routine, and interactions with other animals or people.

When a dog faces multiple stressors in a short period, these triggers can accumulate and have a cumulative effect. For instance, if a dog is already anxious due to a thunderstorm and then encounters a stranger entering their home, their reaction may be more intense compared to experiencing only one stressor at a time. This is because each trigger adds to the dog’s overall stress level, making it challenging for them to remain calm.

During trigger stacking, the body releases adrenaline and cortisol, stress hormones that prepare the dog for a fight-or-flight response. It takes time for these hormones to return to normal levels, and the dog’s body to reach homeostasis. This is why it’s crucial to manage trigger stacking and prevent it from occurring in the first place.

Once we are back home, I will give Dozer a few days of normality to allow his cortisol levels to reduce (which can take up to 3 days). After that, I will gradually reintroduce him to pubs and cafes, taking small steps to ensure he doesn’t generalise his behaviour to all eating places. It is important to plan and organize this process carefully. If I miss the signs of him becoming uneasy and allow him to become overwhelmed to the point of reacting with an outburst, we risk creating a pattern.

Although trigger stacking led to this behaviour, in Dozer’s mind, barking and lunging were attempts to make the other dog go away. By removing him from the situation, this goal was achieved. I’m not suggesting that we should have moved him outside to calm down because we most certainly should have, but rather pointing out that mismanaging the situation could create a pattern where Dozer believes barking and lunging leads to the removal of the perceived threat.

This is often where reactive behaviour starts. Owners may either avoid the situation entirely, which means the dog never learns how to react appropriately other than barking and lunging, or they continue to expose the dog to the situation but in excessive amounts, resulting in a cycle of bark-lunge-removal. This can be incredibly frustrating for both the owner and the dog.

To visualize the situation, imagine it as a game of buckeroo, with the original trigger being the full load that causes the donkey to buck. To start, we need to have just one or two items on the saddle, then stop and give time between sessions to remove the items and allow your dog to process and recover.

Remember, each dog is unique, so it’s always recommended to consult with a professional dog trainer or behaviourist who can provide personalised guidance and support based on your dog’s specific needs

Unruly Dogs: Understanding and Addressing Behavioural Issues

For centuries, dogs have been our loyal, loving, and obedient companions. However, not all dogs fit this stereotype, and some may exhibit unruly behaviour that leaves their owners frustrated and unsure of how to address the issue. In this blog, we will delve into some factors that can contribute to a dog being out of control, including health, diet, breed, lifestyle, and genetics.

While certain breeds may have a predisposition towards certain behavioural problems, it is important to remember that every dog is an individual. Genetics is just one piece of the puzzle. Here are some considerations when addressing these issues in breeds with predisposed behaviours:

Early Socialisation and Training:

Regardless of breed, early socialisation and training are crucial to shaping a dog’s behaviour. By properly exposing them to various environments, people, and animals from a young age, we can mitigate potential behavioural issues.

Breed-Specific Exercise and Mental Stimulation:

Recognizing the specific needs of your dog’s breed is important. Providing ample exercise and mental stimulation tailored to their breed traits can help channel their energy and prevent behavioural problems associated with boredom or under-stimulation.

Professional Guidance:

Seeking professional help from trainers or behaviourists experienced with specific breeds can provide valuable insights and guidance in addressing breed-specific behavioural issues.

The Role of Health and Diet:

Underlying health issues can sometimes manifest as behavioural problems in dogs. Consulting a veterinarian to rule out any medical conditions that may be causing or exacerbating the dog’s behaviour is crucial. Additionally, a well-balanced, nutritious diet can positively impact a dog’s behaviour and overall temperament. (See last week’s blog for more details on diet)

The Importance of Lifestyle:

Dogs are social animals and require more than just physical exercise. A lack of balance between exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction can result in restlessness, hyperactivity, and destructive behaviour. Providing adequate exercise, engaging toys and games, and regular socialisation opportunities can help channel their energy in a positive direction.

Understanding Breed and Genetics:

Different dog breeds have distinct traits and temperaments. While genetics influence a dog’s behaviour, it is essential to remember that proper training, socialisation, and a nurturing environment can still shape a dog’s behaviour positively. Tailoring training and management techniques according to breed-specific tendencies is highly effective.

Consistency Positive Reinforcement:

Consistency in training methods and expectations is crucial for helping an out-of-control dog. Positive reinforcement techniques, such as rewarding desired behaviours and ignoring or redirecting unwanted ones, can be highly effective. Patience, understanding, and clear communication are key to encouraging positive changes in the dog’s behaviour.

Seeking Support:

Support from fellow dog owners, online communities, or local dog training clubs can provide guidance, empathy, and shared experiences. Sharing challenges and successes with others who have faced similar situations can be a valuable source of encouragement and knowledge.

Here are a couple of the cases we are currently working with:

Case 1: Barking and Car Chasing

Breed: Border Collie

Border Collies are highly intelligent and energetic dogs with a strong herding instinct. They may exhibit behaviours such as nipping at heels or chasing moving objects if not properly trained and mentally stimulated. Effective training and mental stimulation can help address these tendencies. Firstly, we needed to identify the triggers to determine what initiates the chasing and barking. It could be the sound, movement, understanding this is crucial to building a program that will help. Then we begin to desensitise and counter-condition. Gradually exposing her to the triggers in a controlled manner, starting from a distance. Using positive reinforcement techniques, such as treats and praise, to reward her calm behaviour.

Case 2: Digging Holes in the Garden, Zero Recall

Breed: Siberian Husky

Siberian Huskies are known for their striking appearance and independent nature. With a strong prey drive, they may be prone to escaping or wandering off if not securely fenced. Additionally, they require a lot of exercise to channel their high energy levels. Again, we needed to establish why he was digging. We determined that this was driven by the need to escape and explore the world beyond the fence. This was the same for his lack of recall; he simply wanted to investigate everything, and a walk a couple of times a day was just not enough. He now has a busy roster of mentally stimulating games aimed at unleashing the prey drive and building a better relationship with his owner by playing fun games. A regular visit to an off-lead secure field for him to run and weekly training sessions to stimulate his busy mind.

Dealing with an out-of-control dog can be overwhelming, but with the right approach, it is possible to help them become well-behaved and happy companions. By addressing underlying health issues, providing a nutritious diet, understanding breed traits, ensuring an active lifestyle, and seeking professional training and behaviour modification, you can set your dog up for success. Remember, patience, consistency, and a positive reinforcement approach are vital in helping these dogs overcome their challenges and thrive in their human families. With dedication and support, both you and your unruly dog can find harmony and create a strong bond built on trust and understanding. Together, you can navigate the journey of addressing behavioural issues and enjoy the rewarding experience of having a well-behaved and contented dog by your side.

Understanding Your Dog’s Behaviour:

A Guide for Frustrated Owners

Why fighting genetics is a loosing battle. It is vital to consider genetics when training dogs with bad behaviour because genetics can significantly influence a dog’s behaviour and temperament. Dogs inherit certain traits and tendencies from their parents and ancestors, which can impact their behaviour patterns, instincts, and predisposition to certain behaviours.

Understanding a dog’s genetic background can provide valuable insights into their behaviour. Certain breeds have been selectively bred for specific purposes, such as herding, guarding, or hunting, and these instincts may manifest in their behaviour. For example, a herding breed may display a strong desire to chase and nip at moving objects, like children or bicycles, which can be misinterpreted as aggression or bad behaviour.

By considering a dog’s genetic predispositions, we can tailor our training methods and techniques accordingly. For example, a dog with a high prey drive may benefit from structured and consistent training that focuses on redirecting their natural instincts in a positive way.

Furthermore, understanding a dog’s genetics can help us set realistic expectations and avoid frustration. Some behaviours may be more challenging to modify due to genetic factors. It’s important to remember that while training can have a significant impact, it cannot completely override a dog’s genetic predispositions.

Overall, considering genetics when training dogs with bad behaviour allows us to develop a more comprehensive and effective training plan that takes into account the dog’s natural instincts and actually use these to our benefit, leading to better outcomes and a deeper understanding of the dog’s behaviour.

Here are the top 5 issues we get calls for.

1. Destructive Chewing:
   – Provide plenty of appropriate chew toys and rotate them regularly to keep your dog engaged.
   – Dog-proof your home by removing valuable or hazardous items from your dog’s reach.
   – Supervise your dog and redirect their chewing behaviour to appropriate toys when they start chewing on something they shouldn’t.

2. Excessive Barking:
   – Identify the triggers for your dog’s barking and work on desensitizing them to those triggers through gradual exposure and positive reinforcement.
   – Provide mental and physical stimulation for your dog through regular exercise and interactive toys.
   – Teach your dog a “quiet” command using positive reinforcement training techniques

3. Separation Anxiety:
   – Gradually desensitize your dog to your departures by practicing short absences and gradually increasing the time.
   – Create a safe and comfortable space for your dog when you’re away, such as a crate or a designated area.
   – Use positive reinforcement training techniques to reward calm behaviour when you leave and return.

4. Lead Reactivity:

– Identify the stimulus, is it the lead? cars? movement? people? dogs? etc
   – Gradually desensitize your dog to the presence of the stimuli by using counter-conditioning techniques.
   – Use a front-clip harness or head collar to give you more control and prevent pulling.
   – Seek professional help from a qualified dog trainer or behaviourist to address lead reactivity as this can escalate to being dangerous quickly.

5. Jumping Up on People:
   – Teach your dog an alternative behaviour, such as sitting or offering a paw, that is incompatible with jumping.
   – Ignore the jumping behaviour and only reward your dog when they exhibit the desired alternative behaviour.
   – Consistently reinforce the desired behaviour and provide plenty of positive reinforcement for calm greetings.

Always remember that consistency, patience, and positive reinforcement are key when addressing behavioural issues in dogs. It’s important to tailor your approach to your specific dogs needs and seek professional help if you are unsure.

It is easier to pay for one session to ensure your on the right path then leaving it until the behaviour has escalated.

Remember we are here to help.

Is Christmas Merry for our Dogs?

Christmas is a happy time for humans to get together and be merry (or argue depending on your family) But it can be a stressful and confusing time for our dogs.

Routines change, more people visit, or they are alone more often than normal, most dogs like routine and can get anxious when there are changes. On top of this they now have to cope with a tree in the house they can’t pee on, it has shiny balls all over it and nobody throws them! sometimes there are even edible things hanging there too that can’t be eaten, interesting presents they can’t chew, twinkling lights with wires that bite.

Did you know some fir trees produce oils which are mildly toxic and if ingested could cause your dog to vomit or excessively drool.

We all know there are loads of Christmas foods which are poisonous or toxic to your dog, including grapes, sultanas chocolate and raisins,

mince pies, Christmas puddings, dried fruit nuts, chocolate, even something that sound like they could be safe often aren’t. Turkey scraps could contain tiny bones which are dangerous.

This doesn’t mean we should lock ourselves away and not celebrate, it’s just something all dog owners need to be aware of so we can make sure Christmas is a happy time for our dogs too.

Dog bites over the Christmas periods are higher than any other time of the year, in the majority of cases this involves young children. Not all dogs like tiny humans, they are loud and erratic. At Christmas they can be more excited than normal, maybe they have friends over, or even relatives the dogs have never even met!

All of this on top of probably getting less physical exercise than usual as we are all busy desperately trying to prep a meal and trimmings for the whole of the Moscow state circus !

Most well-socialised family dogs can cope with the temporary craziness of Christmas – and some actually enjoy it, however for a surprisingly large number it’s stressful and worrying. A dog that is under-exercised, over stimulated, under-supervised and over-threshold is an accident just waiting to happen.

So how can we prevent the dog from biting?

Make sure they get enough exercise, (it might actually help your stress levels to escape in the fresh air for an hour. Aunt Mable won’t notice the dust behind the chair!

Supervise all interactions between children and dogs. If you can’t, then create a safe space for your dog to get away

Try and keep your dog’s routine the same as always.

Watch out for any signs your dog might be getting stressed.

Licking their lips, or parts of their bodies

Not settling

Following you around

peeing in the house

Chewing

Pacing or shaking

Whining or barking. …

Yawning, drooling,

Panting.

If you recognise the early signs then help your dog,

Give them a quiet area away from everyone. Maybe try Lick mats or a kong, with some tasty treats.

Have yourselves a merry Christmas and relax and enjoy the time with your friends and family knowing that your dogs are safe and happy too.

Pacing or shaking

Whining or barking. …

Yawning, drooling,

Panting.

If you recognise the early signs then help your dog,

Give them a quiet area away from everyone. Maybe try Lick mats or a kong, with some tasty treats.

Have yourselves a merry Christmas and relax and enjoy the time with your friends and family knowing that your dogs are safe and happy too.

Do you scare your dog to fight

The blood pounded in my ears the deafening echo of my heart filled my head making it impossible to think, my breathing so rapid I can’t get the oxygen I need to stop the panic I can feel bubbling up inside me.
The figure from the distance still running straight at me, My vision disfigured through the panic as if looking through a fish-eye lens. I have to get away I have to escape this creature who has me firmly in its sights. My friend has hold of me reassuring me that everything is ok, but I feel trapped and scared, overwhelmed by fear too much to even understand the words she is saying. And then it’s upon me, it’s hot breath in my face, the heady smell of it drowning out everything. I twist and turn trying to escape but she holds me tighter telling me it’s all going to be fine. My breathing is so hard, with every lung full reeking of his scent as if choking me with his stench.
If cry out in fear with my chest growing tight and still he is there breathing on my neck touching me taunting me. If I do nothing I will die! My instinct to survive takes over and I sink my teeth into him!

The ordeal is finally over I can breath again. But my friend is shouting I’m a ‘bad dog’ and “he just wanted to play”.

Running straight into the face of an unknown dog is NOT ‘FRIENDLY’.
It is rude and confrontational.

Any dog can be rude occasionally, they are animals but as owners we need to understand their world better and help them interact, after all many of these behaviours are because we have intervened in the natural interactions between dogs,

When we restrict our dog’s options to move away from something scary, we often remove the “flight option.” This leaves the dog few other choices, and one of them is often the “fight option.”

Never allow your dog to run up to another unless the owners have said its ok too, and even then remember that things can quickly change between dogs. My suggestion is the 3 second rule. Three seconds is the maximum amount of time the first meeting should last between dogs. This is more than enough time for the dog’s nose to have taken in and process an immense amount of information. Never pull your dog away as we don’t want either dog thinking there is anything negative about the meeting. A simple ‘this way’ or ‘come on’ maybe showing their ball if they have one. Many owners make the mistake of waiting that bit longer to see if they ‘get on’ or misreading a ‘freeze’ or other subtle body gestures that mean “I don’t like you furball, leave me alone”!

What is punishment?

Do you use punishment when teaching and living with your dog?

Many people say that they don’t use punishment, but are they correct? What is punishment anyway?

Punishment: An operant conditioning term that refers to the application or removal of something immediately following a behaviour in order to reduce the likelihood of the behaviour being repeated again in the future.

The word ‘punishment’ has such a stigma attached to it with regards dog psychology/training – it seems to be only associated with abuse and bad practise in the public eye. This is understandable as we tend to think of punishment in human terms, as retribution, paying for misdeeds or ‘getting our own back’. We think of parking fines and imprisonment, loss of freedom etc. So in this context it would be an unpleasant and largely ineffective training approach if applied to dogs!

In the scientific context however the term ‘punishment’ is completely misunderstood. It refers to the act of providing a consequence in relation to a behaviour in order to decrease the likelihood of that behaviour being repeated, the ‘punishment’ is delivered in a neutral state and no emotion is implied or involved. This should be descriptive and usually ‘blocks’ an unwanted behaviour before it starts to escalate, thus allowing for an alternative behaviour to be trained in it’s place so that we can reward this, and teach a better response or reaction in future. So, looking at it this way, this is not cruel or abusive at all, it is a very basic fundamental need, it ensures clarity and confidence in behaviours, allows us to halt a ritual that is damaging so that we can redirect onto a great alternative that is rewarding. This maximises the potential for enjoyment of joint activities and ensures that the dog has all of the information that he needs to live in our complex world and to thrive, be included in family life and enjoy freedom within the structure. Dogs with boundaries are relaxed and confident, they know the rules, stress levels are low and security is high!

Some scenarios;

A dog leaving his food in order to go for a drink from the water bowl and returning to find that the cat has finished his dinner – the act of abandoning his meal has been punished. He may begin to guard his food from the cat – so not a good outcome here. Or he may merely learn to be more watchful when the cat is around – maybe doling out a bit of punishment himself in the form of strong eye contact. We could avoid this entirely by not allowing the cat to approach the food bowl.

Saying ‘No’ with a firm glance when our dog goes to steal our lunch is a punishment. In future he will understand that our food is off limits – possibly a life saver if that food happens to be a bowl of unattended chocolate raisins!

Telling off a dog that has chewed up the sofa earlier that day is punishing. Not a good time to punish however – the chewing was probably stress related due to our absence, likely due to our poor planning or a lack of fulfilment in the dog, and probably occurred hours ago! This is not an appropriate time or context to use punishment at all. Punish yourself by hitting the credit card to buy another sofa but don’t punish the dog, it’s too late, it’s not appropriate and it could make matters worse!

Putting a tennis ball into a pocket when our dog bites at our hand in excitement for a game is a punishment, this provides not only a punishing consequence for the teeth to maintain safety, but very importantly, provides a consequence for excessive excitement (this part is passive association so isn’t technically punishment, but it is an association that is super-important!!). Excitement slips into anxiety very easily and isn’t a good state to promote, we CERTAINLY shouldn’t throw the ball at this point.

Clapping your hands to interrupt with a startle as a dog dips her head into the bin to retrieve the string from the Sunday Roast is a punishment! Again possibly a life saving punishment, there’s tin foil and cooked chicken bones in there too!

Punishment gets a terrible reputation because of the potential for abuse, and some terrible misapplication in the past, BUT It is the way in which punishment is applied, and the circumstances surrounding the punishment that makes it a kindness or a cruelty, not the act itself.

A punishment that is too extreme, inappropriate in context or administered in anger or frustration is not in the spirit of natural punishment, and would be better termed abuse! In nature dogs gain such a lot of information from the environment through punishments and rewards – equally. They learn what is safe and healthy and what is not, how to approach dogs if they want to play and what kind of approach results in social aggression, they learn what gets them what they want and they learn the boundaries of others – in our complicated and busy human world we need to be sure to describe the many rules to live by very clearly indeed. If we tell our dogs what to do and reward then this is a great start! We mustn’t omit the other side of the coin however, rules that are enforced maintain physical safety, and promote emotional calmness. This is a need and a right, this is our job as caretaker, owner and as the dog’s family.

It is very unfortunate that behavioural research adopted the term ‘punishment’ in this way. The negative cultural connotations associated with it in no way describe the scientific principle related to decreasing a given behaviour. Historically punishment has been misapplied and this has created a huge taboo when discussing the concept frankly and openly. But I think we need to be clear about what it is we are referring to when we discuss any terms used in behaviour modification, as some such as this could be misconstrued. In fact they regularly are – and this is currently leading to a sinister upsurge of unbalanced, unhappy, stressed and miserable dogs. It is no freak coincidence that euthanasia within rescue, and dog bites have increased massively since society adopted the ‘punishment is nasty and unnecessary’ stance. I think that many people have thrown the baby, the bath and their common sense out with the bath water! In the true sense punishment is calming and descriptive, necessary and kind.

So to sum up, unless we allow our dogs to do only what they want to do when they want to do it, and hang the consequences, safety and emotional balance, then perhaps a more accurate statement would be to say that we ‘do not use abusive methods’. Or perhaps we could state that we ‘avoid all but low level correction’, ‘preferring to use reward based training where possible’. This would be more accurate and would be a great basis for training and behaviour! Genuine ‘reward only’ approach is not kind at all when it comes to behaviour intervention for the most part! It is a bastardisation of the science, it is ineffective for many dogs and for addressing many issues, and for me can be as confusing and cruel as adopting an approach that is devoid of all reward.

Food for thought… both punishment AND reward can be a kindness or a cruelty. One without the other will never be enough to help every dog in every scenario.

if you enjoyed this read please take a look at julia’s page,

https://www.facebook.com/balancebehaviour/

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Mantrailing is more than training.

Please read this article from Mantrailing uk

Find an event at Doghampton

Mantrailing is like no other activity or sport that you can take part in with your pet dog. It is completely unique dog training in many ways but quite interestingly, it can help solve a number of unwanted behavioural problems that may challenge your every day life with your dog such as fear, hyperactivity, phobias, stress, anxiety, reactivity and aggression.

Mantrailing is allowing the dog to make the right choices independently and will be much more satisfying and prioritising the preferred habits in the brain. It has the effect that over time, it changes unwanted habitual behavior and shapes new behavior that is the final, desired goal. It interrupts and redirects unwanted dog behavior, will give the dog satisfaction and can be therapeutic. This, in turn, will provide various benefits and will give you and the dog more confidence and stress free experiences.

These dog behaviours can lead to you becoming extremely isolated with your dog and having stressful and disappointing experiences and missing out on taking part in various activities or even simple dog walks.

Mantrailing is the ultimate sport for turning a pessimist into an optimist!

It is one of the very few sports where the dog can work freely and the handler can enjoy watching their dog work. It is all about putting the dog in control and the handlers taking a back seat and watching how the dog works tricky trails out themselves. Through this, the handler learns to read the dogs body language, which creates a great bond and ultimately will equate to further progression in their behavioural and every-day training.

By taking part in Mantrailing, both you and your dog become a team – the best team imaginable! You will achieve success after success together, getting a buzz each time a missing person is found.

This will also help with building the dog’s confidence and self-esteem up in a very short period of time. It helps the dog to become less stressed, relax, learn a new game and have endless fun along the way. By working as a team, the dog will naturally want to engage with their handler and learn.

A dog’s nose dominates its brain, so naturally Mantrailing provides mental, intellectual stimulation for your dog, providing an exceptional workout for the brain, tiring them out without the need for physical exercise. This is perfect for dogs that are still bouncing around the house after endless walks, puppies, elderly dogs or dogs that are unable to complete as much physical exercise for one reason or another.

“It is invaluable dog training.”

It´s not competitive or over arousing like some other dog sports. It is fantastic at getting the dogs to solve problems, which in turn will build confidence and make the dog more likely to respond to behavioural modification training as the dog will want to engage and learn. This will help to change the dog’s reaction to certain situations such as a person, a dog, another animal or person.

“By making Mantrailing the best game ever, we change the priorities for the dog.”

Behaviour, that has become habitual for the dog, such as chasing a runner or barking at another dog, can be challenging to reverse. By making Mantrailing, which is a natural game, more fun, exciting and rewarding, we are changing the priorities for the dog. All over sudden, chasing that bike isn´t as important as following the trail that leads to receiving the best reward. A lot of dogs find trailing rewarding in itself.

Once the dog understands the concept of Mantrailing, which happens usually within the first session, there is no stopping them from doing their ‘job’. The dogs are extremely intent on following the trail to find their missing person, that whatever or whoever gets in their way is completely ignored. This has, for expample, enabled dog reactive dogs to ignore any other dogs on or near their trail.

Nervous dogs have been brave enough to pass objects or scenarios they once wouldn’t pass or take food from strangers that they might not normally approach.

Olfaction is believed to be the dogs’ most powerful and perhaps important sense. Their sensory world is impressively different from ours, they observe their world through relentless sniffing and scent discrimination. Dogs can have up to 300 million olfactory cells, whereas us humans have only about 15 million.

“It is believed that they can detect a tea spoon of sugar in an olympic sized pool.”

Canine olfaction is a growing area of scientific investigation and there are many new applications surfacing every year. The dogs’ brain is build around the information it gets from scent which is closely linked to emotions. Endorphins are chemicals that are produced in the brain during times of stimulation and excitement, they create feelings of calmness and happiness and decrease stress and anxiety.

When endorphin levels are too low the dog is likely to feel under a lot of stress, which can result in undesired or obsessive behaviours that the dogs use as a mechanism to cope. Anything that induces pain or excitement boosts endorphin levels, so a dog could chew his own paw, spin, or chase shadows all day as their way of creating enough endorphins for normal function.

The more the brain can be engaged and challenged with new behaviours, the more relaxed and content the dog will be. Stimulating the dog mentally and physically can help it cope with lower than average levels of endorphins being produced.

So what are you waiting for? Get trailing!

To find out more about Mantrailing and how to get involved, visit our events page or join our Facebook group “Mantrailing Association UK”

Find out more

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References

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/280446218_Canine_Olfaction_Scent_Sign_and_Situation

http://www.balancebehaviour.org/